You have been blindfolded and placed in the middle of a lively cosmopolitan city. As the blindfold is removed a smile comes across your face. You immediately notice the architecture, fashion and the cafes. Your heart jumps. PARIS! It must be. Then you notice the soft, almost romantic, dialect of Spanish being spoken… a slight odor of grilled meat is in the air. Is it Barcelona, Madrid? It is the winter in New York but it’s an amazing 85 degrees here. Then it hits you like a ton of bricks. Buenos Aires, Argentina!

Argentina is the second largest country in South America and the largest Spanish speaking country in the world. Its 23 provinces stretch from the Atlantic Ocean to the Andes Mountains (East to West) and from Brazil/ Paraguay/ Uruguay to the Tierra Del Fuego (North to South). This vastness gives Argentina almost unrivaled biodiversity, as well as topographical and climate variations (Like the USA but in reverse because it’s in the southern hemisphere).

Like the United States, Argentina is a country of immigrants. The majority of inhabitants are descendants of immigrants from Europe, and not just Spaniards. Argentina was second (to the USA) in the number of European immigrants received during the 19^th and 20^th century.  The majority of European immigrants came from Italy and Spain. In addition many immigrants arrived from European countries such as Germany, Romania and Russia (Like L’s family). Today, this melting pot gives Argentina a distinct European feel found nowhere else in the Americas.

From architecture to fashion, Argentina is significantly influenced by European styles, with Buenos Aires being the capital of it all.  The other big influence on Argentine culture is the gauchos and their traditional country lifestyle. As the true cowboys, the Gauchos still herd and raise cattle in the Pampas… this is why the meat here is the best in the world. Throw in the communal act of drinking yerba mate with friends, a little tango dancing, and you have Argentina in a nutshell.

Pato may be the official national sport of Argentina, but football (soccer) is the country’s real passion. With two World Cups, two Olympic Gold Medals, fourteen Copa Americas and Diego Maradona (the greatest soccer player of all time) to count as theirs, the national soccer team is consistently one of the best in the world. Locally, the two biggest teams within the country, River Plate and Boca Juniors, have a fierce rivalry a la Yankees-Red Socks.

Gastronomically, Argentina is a food paradise. Heavily influenced by Italian and Spanish (Spain, not Latin American) cooking, many of the dishes are common to Europe, but the best Argentina has to offer are the home-grown creations such as empanadas (beef patties in a fluffy pastry shell), sandwiches de miga (thin sandwiches with a slice of cold cut and cheese), chorizo (a flavorful sausage), facturas (French and Viennese influenced pastry) and the absolutely decedent dulce de leche, a sweet milky caramel substance. Taste it once and your life will be changed forever. Even better, get some facturas with dulce de leche in them and you will die and go to heaven. Of course no trip to Argentina is complete without an “asado” (Argentinian BBQ) including chorizo, sweetbread,  morcilla (blood sausage) and every cut of red meat imaginable. Wash it all down with a flavorful Malbec and you’re in serious food heaven.

With his mother being an immigrant from Argentina, L grew up learning a great deal about the culture and customs of this South American country. Weekend BBQs in the summer were, and are, a site to be seen. Starting at 10am and ending well after the sun went down, the entire family would gather for all-day feasts. It would all start off in the morning with some fresh dulce de leche filled pastries and quickly progress from there. After heating the coals to just the right temperature, the grilling onslaught would start. As the day would go on, various treats of meat and cow innards would come off the grill to the oohs and aahs of the family. Being Argentinian, all of it would be washed down by more than a few glasses of wine (some times the kind that comes out of gallon jugs).

Needless to say, A and L have been talking about a trip to Argentina for the last 13 years but never pulled the trigger. And then it happened. L’s parents announced a family trip back to the “old country” and we all had to come. It didn’t take much to twist our arms. After a few months of intense discussions the plans were finally set. The clan would fly out to Buenos Aires (capital city) for a week of sightseeing and a little side trip to the countryside, Las Pampas.

Wanting to live like Porteños (slang term for a Buenos Aires resident) for the week, we decided to rent an apartment in the Recoleta (think Upper West Side of Manhattan) section of the city. There are an incredible amount of great hotels in the city, but there are also many extremely reasonably priced apartments with services you would expect to see from a hotel. The rental agency we used was able to set up a cleaning service, food delivery and even cell phones for us to use while in town.

Buenos Aires is tourist city without any real major sites to see. But oddly enough, one of the things that make the city great is the lack of famous sites. There is no pressure to run around all day to make sure you fit everything in before leaving. That’s not to say that there aren’t great museums (a trip to the MALBA Museum is a fantastic way to spend an afternoon), historic buildings (i.e. the Pink House, like the White House… just pink) or sites like Eva Peron’s grave (Evita herself!). It’s just that you won’t find many famous landmarks like say… the Louvre or the Empire State Building. So go ahead and enjoy sitting at a café for three hours, strolling down Avenida Alvear (high end shopping) or finding that special something at a boutique in Palermo (the Greenwich Village of Buenos Aires).

The bus and subway systems within the city are more than adequate. Buenos Aires has an amazingly old subway and the cars are all original. For such a modern city, the subway is a real trip back in time. The colorful buses stop all over the city and the destinations are clearly marked on each bus. Taxis are also plentiful, very reasonable priced and can be hailed in the street. Late a night or when heading into less busy sections of town, pick up the radio taxi phone number before you exit and you will never be without a ride. We took taxis everywhere.

Luckily for us, and now for the all the readers of this site, some family members hooked us up with a local driver that we hired for rides to the airport and around the city. He wound up being a valuable asset and close friend. Ricardo, driver to the stars and regular folk, has a knowledge of the city and country that is second to none. From sightseeing drives around the city, to the ultimate choripan stand or which is the best estancia (Argentina’s version of the dude ranch where the Gauchos [cowboys] tend the cattle you are chowing down on) day trip.

For the most part, our trip consisted of strolling the streets of Buenos Aires, shopping, eating, site seeing and visiting family. It was truly amazing. Just when we had enough of that, we took a trip to the countryside, also referred to as The Pampas, to spend the day as Gauchos. With Ricardo guiding the way, the entire crew arrived at Estancia El Ombu ready to ride horses and eat parillada made by the gauchos. The day was truly magical. We played some traditional games, rode horses throughout the vast pampas and ate what was easily the best meal of the entire trip, prepared in their BBQ house. The vast and sprawling estancia was comfortable and inviting. There was even a beautiful pool for cooling off after the day of eating and riding.

After eating our way across Buenos Aires, and the countryside, it was time for us to head home. Exhausted and about 10 pounds heavier, we flew home with memories to last a lifetime, or at least a year or two. Planning for a return trip is already in full swing.

Buenos Aires

Day 1: A Tourist’s Overview

Much like New York City, touring Buenos Aires isn’t so much about checking a bunch of famous sites off a list, but more about experiencing the energy of the city. Buenos Aires rivals some of the great big cities of the world with a variety of neighborhoods ranging from the modern high rises of Puerto Madero, to the Parisian inspired historic section of Recoleta, to the quaint cobblestone lined streets of the very ‘villagey’ San Telmo and the vibrant colors and sounds of the bidonville, Boca. Our trip consisted of six days of exploring the streets by foot… checking out small local shops with handmade goods, sampling authentic street food and witnessing spontaneous displays of tango!

Our home base was a massive apartment in Recoleta located on Ayacucho (pronounced ash-ah-coo-cho), a lovely avenue in the very French section of the city. We started our morning with our favorite Argentinean breakfast from Pertutti… factures, the most amazing mini pastries filled with dulce de leche, a rich, rich, rich caramel! They offer absolutely no nutritional value and are filled with calories… and are incredibly worth it. After filling up on sugar, we had the energy we needed to start our tour of this metropolis.

We always love beginning with an overview and we accomplished this with a city excursion with Ricardo, a friendly, English speaking local with his own tour business. With a variety of vehicle offerings, Ricardo picked us up in a comfy van and we were off.  We started in the Microcentro, the main government district surrounding the Plaza de Mayo, a square famous for speeches by Eva Peron and political protests and revolutions. Surrounding the May Pyramid, an obelisk in the center of the plaza, the perimeter is flanked by ornate buildings like the Casa Rosada (The President’s ‘Pink House’), the Cabildo de Buenos Aires, City Hall, Legislatura de la Ciudad and the Metropolitan Cathedral. These are ‘the sites’ of the city… check them out, take pictures and mark them off your list.

Boca was next on the journey, a bold array of buildings made of corrugated steel ship remains from the nearby port. Homes and stores were construction of mismatched square pieces decorated with bright, left over paint in all the primary colors. The main strip is El Caminito, a street through the center of the district with plenty of souvenirs, local art right from the creators, and natives dancing tango in the open air. Much of the area sports the traditional yellow and blue of the Boca Junior Football Club to proudly demonstrate the area’s allegiance to the famous nearby stadium. If you are a major fan of ‘futbol’, a stop at the stadium is a must. Tour the premises, view a plethora of memorabilia and purchase your own displays of team spirit at the shop.

We finished the outing with a drive through the remaining, major neighborhoods of the city, each one distinct in their own way. The historic San Telmo, is the oldest district with quaint cobblestone streets lined with antiques, parilladas, tango parlors and colonial style dwellings. It feels a lot like Greenwich Village in NYC, minus the tattoo parlors and vinyl record shoppes. Palermo has three major sections, Soho, Hollywood and Viejo. The take-away? All upscale and beautiful. All FULL of shopping and adorable boutiques. All JAMMED with places to snack, sip and chat.

While all of the neighborhoods we visited exuded history and a regard for capturing the essence of the past, Puerto Madero is the city’s future. Lining the Rio de la Plata, this contemporary, new construction project boasts high end high rise apartments, upscale waterfront dining and plenty of places to spend your money. Plus with the river and the Buenos Aires Ecological Reserve as its border, the serene views offer a lovely atmosphere.

Passing over the modern Puente de la Mujer (Woman’s Bridge), we arrived at one of our favorite meals, the roadside food truck El Parrillón. It’s such a simple concept, but we just can’t get enough choripan! Chorizo and pan… or sausage and bread for you non-Spanish speakers. Although the truck’s location under a set of massive trees with literally thousands of small chirping residents proved to be a challenge place to eat lunch (and remain free of a splattering of poop on your head!), the crusty bread and snappy sausages covered in chimichurri (a local spice blend) all washed down with an icy cold Orange Fanta can’t be beat. A simple, yet perfect, Argentinean lunch.

We arrived back at our temporary ‘home’ tired! After a short cat nap, we emerged for dinner at La Parolaccia Casa Tua, an Italian restaurant in Puerto Madero. With so many European influences helping to mold Argentina’s traditions, nods to France and Italy’s cultures is quite common place. Edible, architectural and musical inspirations help to create Buenos Aires’ cosmopolitan image, and finding fine dining establishments like Casa Tua seals the deal. The elegant, formal atmosphere and refined, classic cooking made for a lovely first evening in the city. Although we were too sleepy to partake, the surrounding neighborhood seemed jumping with action. We would have to put it on our mental list for next time!

Day 2: Strolling and Sites!

We started day two with a morning stroll through our local neighborhood of Recoleta. The ornate buildings, smells of fresh coffee and pastries, and array of unique boutiques will make you instantly think of Paris. It radiates a very similar feeling. We explored the streets surrounding our apartment and made our way towards Avenida Quintana, a famous stretch filled solely with al fresco snacking and drinking options under a massive ombu umbrella, a native tree to the region.

Although the choices are a plenty, we decided to go with the classic, La Biela, a simple cafe with a long history. The menu is ‘Argentinean Diner’ style if that makes any sense… a menagerie of sandwiches, snacks and traditional fare. Hugging a large park and the Recoleta Cemetery, a major local attraction, we enjoyed our breakfast and the very interesting people watching as hundreds enjoyed the green space. Professional dog walking is extremely popular in the city with tiny girls everywhere being lead around by 10+ furry friends all happily trotting along together. We checked out every swarm of wiggling beasts… we missed our pups!

Wrapping up with some REAL Coca Cola in a glass bottle, our next spot was the cemetery. Yes… I know it seems weird. Why would anyone want to tour a cemetery while on vacation? Well once inside, I could understand why. This was no average final resting place. The extensive facility housed hundreds of ornate crypts, each one so different from the last. Some were immaculate and covered in fresh flowers, while others had seen better days, but none the less, all of them were quite interesting in their own right… and a great place to take pictures! Eva Peron or ‘Evita’, an Argentine President’s wife and renowned freedom fighter, is the most famous resident of grounds. Her crypt was easy to find… the one with the massive crowd surrounding it. We enjoyed the stroll more than we anticipated. The Recoleta Cemetery is a must see.

Our favorite way to discover a city is to walk, venturing down tiny alleys, through blossoming parks and down grand avenues. Equipped with walking shoes (which A doesn’t break out often), we were finally able to really start our favorite part of visiting a new place. Of course A couldn’t helping popping into a variety of boutiques along the way. All you vegans better close your eyes, because Argentina is famous for its beef, its leather and its fur. A quick stop into Maybe Leather yielded a spontaneous purchase of a Fox vest… the price just can’t be beat and successful negotiation make it impossible to say no. Plus they will custom cut their items to your body within a matter of a day or two! The shops here really cater to the tourist, plus the exchange rate takes the guilt out of purchases. Save your dough and be prepared to shop!

After a long walk through the streets and parks of Recoleta, we emerge onto Modena Design, an interesting shop and cafe with some exotic cars on display and rally car memorabilia to purchase. L was pumped because the Dakar Rally, a road race through Chile and Argentina, was in progress during our visit. There was exciting signage all over the city and we had to pick up some souvenirs to take home, plus some for M as well.

We passed the Floralis Generica as we continued our walk down Avenida Figueroa Alcorta, a wide thoroughfare with many impressive dwellings, establishments and greenery. This massive, contemporary flower sculpture sits within a fountain, and is famous for its mechanics, as it opens and closes to the rising and setting sun. Its worth a look and a couple of pictures.

Our real destination for this walk was the MALBA Museum, a bit further down Avenida Figueroa Alcorta, passed an array of ‘brownstone-esque’ buildings. The Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA) contains a collection of art from the 20th century to the present. Unfortunately, we hadn’t done our homework well enough and we walked up to a locked front door… they were closed on Monday’s! Thank goodness the museum cafe was open and it had cocktails! What a relief. The modern establishment has both indoor and outdoor seating, yummy finger foods and tasty alcoholic beverages. We settled in for an hour and enjoyed the ambiance.

For a change of scenery after leaving the MALBA cafe, we hailed a cab and headed to Palermo Soho for some heavy duty shopping. The streets of Palermo are filled to the brim with boutiques! Pick up handmade leather purses and accessories (even made custom to order!), ornate silver jewelry and tons of clothing and knick knacks. L picked up handmade boots from JR Leather, which he wears on the regular! And A selected scarves, rings and tops from a number of inviting spots. After hours of perusing and purchasing, we picked up some low key snacks at one of the local cafes, and headed back for a chill night at the casa.

After all that walking, finally sitting down put us into a coma, and we had no interesting in moving… at least for a little while. We ordered in pizza, which was relatively tasty (it’s no New York City slice, but it did the trick), and took a load off. Not wanting to waste the whole night, we decided to head out for drinks and mini snacks at the Four Seasons Hotel, also in the Recoleta district. As always, the Four Season’s was gorgeous and unique and the mixologist provided perfect concoctions and service, as well as some delectable petit fours. A lovely background for a relaxed, end to an evening.

Day 3: Escape to an Estancia

Argentina is a massive country. Though one can easily spend a week or two mulling around Buenos Aires, a visit to the country really isn’t complete without a trip to the countryside, Las Pampas. So after our typical pastry filled breakfast, we were picked up by our “fixer” Ricardo for a day of fun at a working Estancia.

With our destination a few hours away, we made a stop along the way at the small town of San Antonio de Areco. Famous as a traditional Gaucho town and home to numerous artisans and craftsmen, San Antonio de Areco is a real step back in time. Think old west with modern touches.  There are still Gauchos driving around town on horse drawn carriages. We walked around the cobble stone streets of town for an hour or so taking in the sites that included the beautiful town square, amazing artisan food stores and of course, the silver shops. Famous for its silver craftsmen, San Antonia de Areco is the place to purchase an authentic Argentine souvenir made by a real craftsman.

After a drive down some dirt roads through the countryside, we arrived at the sunny and sprawling Estancia El Ombu. Unlike other locations, El Ombu is an actual working Estancia that allows small groups of tourists (no tour buses here) in for a day of living like a Gaucho… actually more like a pampered Gaucho. Our day was amazing. Upon arrival we were greeted with homemade empanadas and a glass of their signature Malbec out on their patio. After a few minutes of relaxing and taking in the odors of the parilla (the BBQ to come later), we were brought over to the horse stables to pick out a steed for a ride around the plains. The ride was tranquil  and almost surreal. We trotted around the countryside along side what appeared to be wild horses, herds of cattle, llamas and other farm animals, all while kept in line by their pack of herding dogs. It was very ‘City Slickers’. Amazingly enough, we all managed to make it back in one piece.

When we returned, it was time for the feast, prepared by the gauchos in their BBQ house (yes, a house that is only used to prepare BBQ!). With the entire family sitting beneath a canopy of trees shading us from the summer heat, the meal would be one of the most memorable and delicious of the trip. The cold salads were constructed of freshly picked veggies, and the grilled meat tasted like it had just been cut from the cow. While eating, we were serenaded by a Gaucho singing traditional folk music. Towards the end of the meal one of the Gauchos walked a horse over and demonstrated an unbelievable variety of tricks he had taught the animal including how to lay down and roll over on command. We topped off our meal with a couple of bottles of malbec, and a yummy ice cream cake-like dessert. These people know how to eat!

After some relaxing under a massive tree and a dip in one of the pools (there are two to relax by and digest), we sat outside on the porch of the ranch house sipping tea and eating bite sized desserts. Full and satisfied, we loaded back into the van and headed home.

Back in Buenos Aires, with the remainder of the family fairly exhausted, A+L headed out to San Telmo for a marathon 10 course dinner (yes we are gluttons) at one of the only molecular gastronomy restaurants in the city. La Vineria de Gualterio Bolivar defines itself as “modern and rational.” Combining classical and modern techniques, the restaurant has an ever changing daily tasting menu. Having studied under Chef Ferran Adrià of El Bulli (rated best restaurant in the world several times), Chef Alejandro Digilio has taken his training and applied it to Argentinian cuisine and ingredients.

Strap in because its a long ride. Dinner here can last four hours as the courses keep coming and the wine keeps flowing! Throughout the dinner Chef Alejandro Digilio and crew attempt  to take you on a naturalistic ride with high quality ingredients.  Don’t be fooled… freshness, quality and seasonality are what really sets this restaurant apart. The molecular techniques may be the vehicle, but the ingredients are the driver. The restaurant is small and gets packed quickly, so reservations are a must. The staff were extremely friendly and accommodating. This is not a place where the food or you will be rushed. Inexpensive and intense, it is a mandatory experience.

Day 4: Shopping!

After a lazy morning, we emerged for a late breakfast/ early lunch at El Cervatillo Confiteria, just a couple of blocks away from our home base in Recoleta. Partaking in some classic local favorites like matambre (Thinly sliced sections of a roll of pork, egg and vegetables) and sandwiches de mega (delicate finger sandwiches), we finished off with some delectable treats from The Cupcake Store, around the corner. The owners are full of life and their decadent creations are full of sinful ingredients. A can’t get enough dulce de leche, so we ordered up several varieties and tasted them all!

After lunch, only one thing was on the agenda, shopping! Recoleta is THE place for hitting the stores, with a brand new mall erected near the cemetery, and luxurious leathers and mid to high end shopping on Avenida Santa Fe. We couldn’t help heading in and out of all the enticing stores! Even L was a shopping addict picking up a new jacket and other items from the ‘Ralph Lauren’ of Buenos Aires.

Crossing the nine lanes of Avenida 9 de Julio, the widest street in the world, we admired the crowning obelisk at its tip, while taking a ‘mid-cross’ break at the park in the center of the avenue. Just taking in the sites, we strolled beneath the impressive, soaring trees in the Plaza Liberator General San Martin, a lovely park nearby, before heading to Calle Florida, a pedestrian only market street exploding with wares. The historic buildings are filled with discount, lets-make-a-deal leather goods, souvenirs and trinkets. As the street narrows, shopping is moved to the ground, and locals sell handmade goods and do-dads on blankets on the floor, flea market style. It definitely becomes a much more ‘urban’ environment, but it’s a fun change of pace from the rest of the city.

While the leather quality at the stores on this block was definitely subpar, we made plenty of purchases at other shops… tons of gifts for our family and of course, ourselves! Scarfs, tops, bracelets, postcards, picture frames and other useless things you want, but don’t need. In addition, we purchased some local items like hand carved knives perfect for the BBQ, and several bombillas, small cups carved out of gourds used for drinking mate, an herbal tea.  Boys love mate, as it is a digestive… and they can’t help but discussing its effects… in detail.

For dinner we headed to Buenos Aires’ most talked about restaurant, Parrilla La Brigada. Featured on numerous travel shows, most recently by Andrew Zimmern, we figured we couldn’t go wrong. We are extreme carnivores so we couldn’t wait to throw down with a slew of perfectly salted, expertly cooked meats in their aged-to-perfection oven. We must admit… we were a little disappointed. By no means was it bad… it was delicious! But it wasn’t life changing, which is what we were expecting. What exactly does life changing steak taste like? Good question. Maybe we were just spoiled by the amazing meal at the estancia, which had La Brigada beat, giving it a score of second place. We would definitely recommend the establishment, but visit Estancia El Ombu for the best steak of your life.

Day 5: Living like Locals

With all of the sections of the city explored and a suitcase full of goods back at the apartment, we could now just kick back and relax. We started with a late breakfast at another location of the chain restaurant and bakery, Pertutti, this one quite massive, located at Corrientes 3202. With just over 24 hours left until our departure, we were bummed that we had come for one of the custom made leather jackets Buenos Aires is so famous for, yet we hadn’t been able to find that middle ground purchase. So far we had come across exclusive boutiques versions and back door crap, but nothing beautiful, but reasonably priced.

Thinking back into the travel show memory banks, A googled a Samantha Brown show she had seen many years ago in which she purchased a custom made leather jacket, made to her dimensions, in her choice of leather, in under 24 hours. Surprising Uru Leather was located in Recoleta only 5 blocks from our apartment, and it still existed! We walked over, and excitingly, it was all true! This lovely boutique was exactly what we were looking for. Within a half hour we picked out our favorite (of the many!) styles, our favorite distressed brown leather, and put in our special requests (i.e. make the bottom longer and the belt shorter). The very next morning our purchase was ready, for only $200 bucks! The quality is truly top notch and negotiations even scored us a better 2 for 1 deal. On our next visit, this will be our first stop!

For a quick break on this steamy day (it was summer in January remember!), we picked up some ridiculously rich dulce de leche ice cream from the local staple, Freddo, and then ponied up to some bar stools at Buller Brewing Company, the city’s first microbrewery. It was nice to just sit and absorb the city. For dinner, we maintained the ‘living like locals’ vibe with a meal at the ultra casual El Desnivel in San Telmo. Jeans and t-shirts, plastic table clothes and a tasty skirt steak from their cultured oven.

After a visit to a local tango hall to watch the Argentine’s in action, we decided to finish our last night on a high note. A quick cab ride and we arrived at the opulent, world renown Alvear Palace Hotel. With a rating of Number One out of all Central and South American hotel and a Travel and Leisure Magazine ‘World’s Best’ award, we were excited for the visit. The main lobby bar is surrounded by ornate gold furniture, jewels in display cases and a staff ready to cater to your every whim. It is the perfect location for elegant cocktails and festive conversation. We stayed for several rounds not wanting to ever leave…

Day 6: The Departure

Although we visited San Telmo for dinner on several occasions, we hadn’t gotten a chance to experience its energy during the day. The Dorrengo Square is its’ heart. Hosting daily crafts markets and a massive antique bazaar on Sundays, peruse the tables for jewelry and handmade trinkets. During the warm weather, the center of the square is filled with tables and the restaurants around the perimeter offer al fresco dining under the trees. To cater to the tourists, expect tango dancers to come sauntering through during your meal with dramatic costumes, music and a tip jar. It is a lovely, low key ‘show’, and in our option, much preferred to the big productions offered elsewhere in the city. With full bellies for the plane, we grabbed our bags and headed back to the airport with Ricardo, our knowledgeable guide and helpful driver.

While visiting Buenos Aires expect an embellished, European style walking city that you can feel safe in, full of wide avenues, ornate monuments and lots of history. Indulge in shopping that rivals some of the great cities of the world… with their own native twist, featuring luxurious furs and leathers handcrafted by local designers! The artistry is apparent in items you will own for a life time. And most of all, never forget the meals. The gooey pastries, rich malbec wine, homemade sausages, and med-rare steaks covered in that Argentine BBQ salt. While our hearts will ache for our return to this welcoming and warming urban escape, our stomachs will yearn for it even more.

The Sites

Hotel and Apartments

• Apartments Buenos Aires (Beautiful apartment rentals around the city available for weekly or monthly rentals. We rented a 3 bedroom, 4 bath at Ayacucho 1480 for $1200 for 8 days. Fabulous location! www.ApartmentsBA.com; Mariana@ApartmentsBA.com)
• Alvear Palace Hotel (Elegance and opulence in the heart of old world Buenos Aires. Perfect location for a scotch or glass of champagne in their lobby bar or afternoon high tea! Winner of Travel and Leisure’s ‘World’s Best’ Award. Avenida Alvear 1891. www.AlvearPalace.com)
• Four Seasons Hotel (High end, contemporary luxury in the Recoleta district. Also great for pre or post dinner drinks in the lobby bar. Posadas 1086. www.FourSeasons.com)

Neighborhoods, Strolling, Shopping and Tours

• Private City Tours, Excursions and Airport Pick Ups with Ricardo Villalba (A friendly and knowledgeable local that speaks perfect English. Multiple vehicles available, including luxury cars or a van perfect for groups. An invaluable part of the trip! ricavill_3@hotmail.com)
• Recoleta (Upscale neighborhood with plenty of shopping and a Parisian inspired motif. Takes its name from the Convent of the Recoleto Monks who built the famous basilica and cemetery. Check out Avenida Santa Fe [Shopping, shopping, shopping!! Boutiques of every type], Avenida del Libertador [A wide main thoroughfare with impressive buildings], Avenida Callao [Beautiful, Parisian inspired buildings], Avenida Alvear [High end shopping and hotels on a picturesque block] and Avenida Quintana [Al fresco dining and drinks beneath the massive ombu trees, hugging the stately cemetery]. More info here.)
• Microcentro (The bustling government city center and home of some of the major sites like Plaza de May0, Casa Rosado, Cabildo de Buenos Aires, City Hall, Legislatura de la Ciudad and the Metropolitan Cathedral. More info here.)
• La Boca (Near the old port of the city, locals live in colorful, corrugated steel buildings made from the remains of old ships. El Caminito, the main drag, is full of tango, art and souvenirs sold in the street by local artists. Nearby, tour the Boca Junior Football Club stadium and pick up some team spirit. More info here.)
• Puerto Madero (Modern, waterfront development on the banks of the Rio de la Plata river with upscale dining, boutiques, ambiance and even a floating casino. For sites, check out the Puente de la Mujer [Contemporary designed 'Woman's Bridge'] and the Reserva Ecológica de la Costanera. More info here.)
• Palermo (A collection of three upscale neighborhoods… Palermo SoHo, Palermo Hollywood and Palermo Viejo, absolutely packed with lovely boutiques, quaint dining options, and gorgeous accommodations. Stroll the romantic cobblestone streets and view the opulent brownstones. Select custom jewelry or pick up handmade and designer leather goods. More info here.)
• San Telmo (Quaint, historic neighborhood with tango, antiques, al fresco dining and cobblestone streets. Start at Dorrengo Square for antiques and crafts [especially Sunday!] and meals at any of the restored 19th century homes turned restaurants/bars, lining the square.) More info here.)

Shops

• Uru Leather (Custom made, QUALITY leather jackets in as little as 24 hours! Amazing! Even order custom jackets online! Vicente Lopez 2132, Recoleta. More info here. www.US-Cueros.com.ar; UruRecoleta@US-Cueros.com.ar)
• Maybe Leather Designs (Furs and colorful leather jackets and bags. Great prices and open to negotiations! Quintana 568, Recoleta. www.Maybe.com/ar; Quintana@Maybe.com.ar)
• JR Boots and Shoes (Men’s leather boots and shoes. Malabia 1727- (1414) Palermo)

Sites

Recoleta

• Recoleta Cemetery (Elegant buildings with aristocratic heritage including ‘residents’ like Eva Peron, presidents, politicians, scientists and artists. More info here. www.RecoletaCemetery.com)
• Centro Cultural Recoleta (The cultural center sits within the 100 year old walls of the former convent. Junin 1930. More info here. www.CentroCulturalRecoleta.org)
• Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (Art museum hosting paintings from the Middle Ages to the 20th Century. Avenida del Liberator 1473. www.MNBA.org.ar)
• Museo MALBA (Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires with a collection from the 20th century to present. Features a fun, modern cafe perfect for a coffee or cocktail. Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3415. www.MALBA.org.ar)
• Recoleta Mall (A brand new shopping mall. www.RecoletaMall.com)
• Floralis Generica (Massive steel flower sculpture by artist Eduardo Catalano, that opens and closes with the sun. Plaza de las Naciones Unidas on Avenida Figueroa Alcorta. More info here.)
• Plaza San Martin (Beautiful green park with giant ombu trees. More info here.)

Microcentro

• Plaza de la República, Avenida 9 de Julio and the Obelisk (A tiny plaza famous for important local gatherings [like football victories] along the widest avenue in the world… a staggering 9 lanes wide! At it’s end, the obelisk marks the importance of this major street. More info here.)
• Florida Street (Bustling, congested clothing, souvenir and trinket shopping with the locals on a pedestrian only street. Stop in at the mall, or pick up cheap leather and lots of gifts for your family back home at any of the shops or flea market style ‘displays’ on the street. More info here.)
• Plaza de Mayo (Square situated in front of the Casa Rosada famous for the ‘May Pyramid’ obelisk, sculptures and public protests. More info here.)
• Casa Rosada (‘The Pink House’ is the home of the Argentine President. Established in 1862, it was named for its rosy hue originally obtained from a mixture of quicklime and bovine blood. More info here.)
• Cabildo (Historic building turned museum, in a lovely, white, colonial building, previously used for government in the early 1800′s. More info here.)
• Metropolitan Cathedral (Main Catholic Church of the city located in the Plaza de Mayo. More info here.)
• Teatro Lírico Colón (Considered one of the best opera houses in the world. Cerrito 628. www.TeatroColon.org.ar)
• Banco de la Nación (National bank of Argentina with beautiful architecture. Avenida Rivadavia. More info here.)

La Boca

• El Caminito (A colorful stretch right through the heart of the neighborhood. Watch tango in the streets. Shop for art straight from the artists. Pick up souvenirs to always remember your visit. More info here.)
• La Bombonera Stadium of Boca Juniors F.C. (The famous soccer stadium of Boca Junior. Souvenirs and tours available. www.WorldFootballTravel.com)

Puerto Madero

• Rio de la Plata Waterfront (Modern shopping, dining and condo development on the riverbank even featuring a floating casino. www.PuertoMadero.com)
• Puente de la Mujer (Contemporary designed ‘bridge across the Rio de la Plata, also known as the ‘Woman’s Bridge’. More info here.)
• Buenos Aires Ecological Reserve (Connect with wildlife and experience the serene vistas of this waterfront preserve. More info here.)
• ARA Presidente Sarmiento (Museum ship formerly used in the Argentine Navy. More info here.)

Palermo

• Bosques de Palermo (Beautiful park and promenade with rose gardens and lakes. More info here.)
• Plaza Serrano (Hosting weekend markets with local items and crafts. Intersection of Borges 1600, Honduras 4700 and Serrano 1500. More info here.)
• Botanical Gardens (A 170 year old treasure with 5000 species of plant life. Intersection of Plaza Italia, Santa Fe 3900 and Las Heras 4000. More info here.)
• Zoo Buenos Aires (The zoo with more than 2500 animals! Avenida Sarmiento and Las Heras. www.ZooBuenosAires.com.ar)
• Planetarium Galileo Galilei (Five floors of space exploration. Avenida Samiento and Belisario Roldan. www.Planetario.gov.ar)

San Telmo

• Plaza Dorrengo (A lovely colonial square hosting al fresco dining, live tango dancing and a Sunday and afternoon flea/ antique market. Pick up unique keepsakes to remember your trip by. More info here.)

Food and Drinks

Recoleta

• La Biela (Famous cafe with al fresco dining near the stately cemetery. A great location for drinks or coffee as well! Avenida Quintana 600; www.LaBiela.com)
• Buller Brewing Company (The first microbrewery in Buenos Aires. Try out mini samples of their selections in a tasting menu. www.BullerPub.com)
• Pertutti Restaurante (A chain of yummy, casual dining spots across the city featuring a delectable fresh pastry selection [available for take out], a ‘something for everyone’ diner style menu and a kid friendly atmosphere. We visited locations at Venida Santa Fe 2020 and Corrientes 3202. www.PertuttiRestaurante.com.ar)
• El Cervatillo Confiteria (Cafe style dining with simple classic Argentinean dishes like matambre and sandwiches de mega. Arenales 1900.)
• Alvear Palace Hotel (Elegance and opulence in the heart of old world Buenos Aires. Perfect location for a scotch or glass of champagne in their lobby bar or afternoon high tea! Winner of Travel and Leisure’s ‘World’s Best’ Award. Avenida Alvear 1891. www.AlvearPalace.com)
• Four Seasons Hotel (High end, contemporary luxury in the Recoleta district. Also great for pre or post dinner drinks in the lobby bar. Posadas 1086. www.FourSeasons.com)
• The Cupcake Store (Amazing!! Gourmet baked goods filled with Dulce de Leche, a rich, decadent caramel. Argentina’s best export! www.TheCupcakeStore.com.ar)
• Freddo (Yummy yummy ice cream! Avenida Corrientes 3247. www.Freddo.com/ar)
• Museo MALBA Cafe (A fun and modern cafe inside the Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires perfect for a coffee or cocktail. Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3415. www.MALBA.org.ar)

La Boca

• Patagonia Sur (Fine dining Argentinean in a gorgeous building. Rocha 801 and Pedro de Mendoza. www.RestaurantePatagoniaSur.com)

Puerto Madero

• El Parrillón (Amazing roadside choripan [Argentine sausage in crusty bread] near the Buenos Aires Ecological Reserve. More info here.)
• La Parolaccia Casa Tua (An upscale Italian restaurant with a lovely atmosphere and tasty classic dishes. A.M de Justo 276; More info here.)

San Telmo

• La Vineria de Gualterio Bolivar (An adorable, eclectic gem! Enjoy a magnitude of mini courses prepared in the molecular gastronomy style by chef Alejandro Digilio. Only a handful of tables so book in advance! This is a CANT MISS EXPERIENCE. Bolivar 865. www.LaVineriaDeGualterioBolivar.com; LaVineriaDeBolivar@gmail.com)
• La Brigada (Argentinean steak house with Andrew Zimmern’s ‘best steak ever’ stamp of approval. Estados Unidos 465; More info here.)
• El Desnivel (A very casual, local’s parillada, with some tasty meats. Defensa 855; www.ParrillaElDesnivel.com.ar)

Late Night

• Tango Show at Viejo Almacén (Av. Independencia y Balcarce, San Telmo;
  +54 11 4307-7388, www.viejo-almacen.com.ar)
• Tango clubs located throughout the city to take lessons and partake in the action

Excursions

• Estancia El Ombu, Argentina (A perfect day on a traditional Argentinean ranch complete with gauchos, horseback riding on the pampas, farm animals, carriage rides, pools and a fabulous meal and plenty of snacks from their BBQ house beneath an umbrella of soaring trees. Located one hour outside of Buenos Aires in San Antonio de Areco. Ruta 31 Cuartel 6; $125 per person; www.EstanciaElOmbu.com; Reservas@EstanciaElOmbu.com)
• San Antonio de Areco, Argentina (A quaint town with beautiful little shops. Stop on your way to the estancia. More info here.)
• Mendoza, Argentina (A bustling metropolis and a world class wine destination, all in the shadow of the massive Andes Mountains. More info here.)
• Patagonia, Argentina (Beautiful vistas, the outdoors and adventure in the most southern part of the country featuring epic landscapes and massive glaciers. More info here.)
• Colonia, Uruguay (Charming, historic old town via a 1 hour ferry ride. More info here.)
• Montevideo, Uruguay (Visit the capital city of Uruguay via a 2.5 hour ferry ride. More info here)
• Iguazu Falls, Brazil (One of the seven natural wonders of the world! Experience the breathtaking, massive waterfalls… but beware of the river cruises! L had a nearly catastrophic experience with a dead boat motor and impeding death with the nearing falls. More info here.)