Travelogue 4: Beauty and History in the South of France
Although we partake in nearly all of our fun activities as a team, the four of us have never been away-away on vacation together. We’ve done countless weekends in Vermont, of course, but never one of the epic adventure vacations A+L and K+M have conquered separately. So what kind of trip can you expect from four hyper-active New Yorkers obsessed with experiencing everything?! Exploring everywhere! Eating anything!? An itinerary pages long, with a history of hundreds of back and forth emails to back up each bullet point. We had an agenda people! And sleeping, or sitting for that matter (unless it involved simultaneously sipping wine), were not included!
The destination selection process was not as hard as you would think. We batted around an idea involving Spain and Portugal and some stops for surfing the shores, but changed our minds after two important events. In January, 2+2 attended La Soirée des Grands Crus in Soho (see: Eat-a-Sode 22), where approximately 30 winemakers from France’s famed Bordeaux region sampled out their creations to a well-heeled crowd. Besides tasting some of the best wines in the world, we had the chance to interact with the vintners themselves and found so many of them to be interesting, warm, and welcoming. We made a mental note that Bordeaux would now be on our short list.

Several months later, K was accepted into a summer program in France to explore and learn about France’s “Dark Years” during World War II, set to take place primarily in Paris and Normandy. It sealed the deal. Our trip was set. A+L+M would meet K at the conclusion of her program in Bordeaux and we would start our adventure, which would continue south to Provence and then on to the French Riviera. A gastronomic and cultural journey set to stimulate all of the senses. Art, history, sand and surf, ocean breezes, rolling hills, glitz, thumping music, designer shops…. adventure… all with a baguette in one hand and a glass of French wine in the other. This is our kind of trip.
We had three home bases which we traveled between by car. With only one long drive (from Bordeaux to Aix-en-Provence), the car proved to be invaluable and a great mode of transportation; however, we did learn of certain situations where hopping on a boat or a vespa would have helped avoid some traffic (getting into St. Tropez is insane by car!). If you aren’t a fan of driving stick or winging it in a foreign country, buses and trains can also serve you well in this section of France; however, traveling to as many locations as we did may prove more difficult if using other modes of transportation.
Our first home base was the Hôtel Logis des Remparts in Saint Emilion, a quaint, historic village made entirely of the limestone quarried in their underground mines. We spent three days and three nights exploring the surrounding Bordeaux wine region. Walks to nearby vineyards, biking through the French countryside, exploring miles of underground caves, and dining al fresco beneath a 9th century church built by monks, were all activities on the list.
The boys made early morning trips twice to ocean front Lacanau (1.5 hrs each way) to surf some French waves, while A+K explored town and sampled Grands Crus at several of the wine shops. A 30 minute drive to the city of Bordeaux proved to be a great afternoon, with lunch and strolls on the lovely promenade, ending in a little riverside nap on a breezy afternoon. At the end of our stay in Saint Emilion, we packed up our Ford Focus (not a sport car!) and made our final stop in the region, Château Marquis de Terme in Margaux. Selected as our favorite vineyard from La Soirée des Grand Crus. We were most excited for this visit.

We toured their extensive facilities with our gracious host Nathalie, and then enjoyed an amazing lunch with both Nathalie and brilliant winemaker, Ludovic David. It was a momentous occasion. After tasting an array of Mr. David’s favorite wines (from Rosé to Bordeaux of course!), including both the 2006 and 2009 1st wines of Château Marquis de Terme, we embarked on the longest drive of our journey- after picking up six bottles of wine of course! They were warm and gracious hosts and we were honored that they chose to dine with us.
We conquered the drive to Aix-en-Provence in just under seven hours. It was a pretty simple journey with the exception of the absolute madness that was ensuing inside of us after listening to WIT FM 100.8 Bordeaux play the same 7 or 8 songs on repeat for the entire drive (Listen to our drive soundtrack featuring Vamos a la Playa and Laisse Tomber Les Problemes). It’s funny how you can’t take hearing a song one more time when you are there, but as soon as you get home you look it up on YouTube! Our late arrival at the Hotel St. Christophe sent us essentially straight to bed (after an unfortunate room change first). After some late night fries on our balcony from a close by open street vendor (it was nearly midnight and nothing else had food to-go!), we went to sleep in our own slice of the Moulin Rouge (the décor was interesting in our new rooms).

Aix-en-Provence is an actual city… not what we were initially expecting. However, it proved to be adorable and oh so Provençal. Imagine an entire city of Greenwich Village… in France! A maze of winding, cobblestone streets filled with tiny clothing and jewelry boutiques, specialty food shops (a store dedicated entirely to gourmet cookies or one just for sampling olive oil!), al fresco cafes, outdoor craft fairs, and of course, the Provençal Market filled with fresh flowers, cheeses, produce, and seafood. We participated in a fun cooking/taste-of-local-life-in-Provence class with some American transplants who provided a great feel of what it must be like to live in ‘Aix’ (pronounced ‘X’) day to day! The take away… the French take eating seriously! Selecting fresh ingredients from the market, visiting separate specialty shops for eggs, then olive oil, then wine, and then spending an afternoon preparing your dishes, all while sipping a bottle of Rosé from Provence. The two hour lunch is the standard.
Our stay in Aix was the shortest (although, we left wanting more!) and after two nights we were on our way to our final destination: Cannes, on the French Riviera. After a drive through Marseille and lunch in the lovely Riviera town of Cassis, we arrived only 2 hours later. Obviously well know for the film festival fame, we knew that all the hype couldn’t be wrong. We were so excited for Cannes to be our final home base! The Hotel Spendid did not disappoint with its double door balconies overlooking the yacht filled harbor, Palais Nightclub and event area, hilltop Musée de la Castre (a castle) and main town plaza. We spent many-an-evening sampling our ever growing wine arsenal on that balcony, listening to the saxophone player below serenade outdoor diners with New York State of Mind. It was like a scene from a movie.

Cannes proved to be not only beautiful, but diverse, from luxury hotels serving 25 Euro cocktails to one of our favorite meals of the trip at a mom and pop shop in Quartier Historique, in the old town. Pedestrian-only shopping streets were aplenty and one for every need and pocketbook! Streets dedicated to luxe fashion, bargain hunting, snacks, drinks… exploring was endless. It was also the perfect jumping off point for day trips to the rest of the region.

We visited the gorgeous Saint Tropez on a beautiful blue bird day, and of course donned all white attire. It was required. This place is everything you’ve heard. Yacht filled. Glitzy. Glamorous. Expensive. Relaxed. Quaint. Picturesque. Perfect. The type of place where you could spend the rest of your life. The boys jumped into the clear blue waves of the Mediterranean for a dip and the girls explored the endless streets of boutiques. Countless celebrities were also in Saint Tropez on the day of our visit, from the Black Eyed Peas and Snoop Dogg, to Chanel house-head Karl Lagerfeld, American Idol’s Ryan Seacrest, and the Hilton sisters. It was a thrilling scene to be a part of for a day.
The next day we explored the Côte d’Azur to the East. We started with a morning in Nice, admiring the works of Henri Matisse at the museum bearing his name in the Cimiez section of town. Then we drove to the Vieille Ville, where we spent the early afternoon wandering the streets of the old town and selected souvenirs, while snacking on fresh gelato. 2+2 then parted ways, with A+L taking the upper corniche to the famous streets of Monaco, where the annual Grand Prix is raced amidst luxury and cliff sides. After a lavish lunch overlooking the Monte Carlo Casino and perfectly manicured central plaza, A+L climbed the hillside to Prince Rainier palace overlooking his sky rise filled kingdom below. The view was incredible.
Switching to the middle corniche for the drive back, soaring views surrounded us as we headed to the seaside village of Villefranche-sur-mer, to reunite with K+M. This captivating hamlet holds a special place in K+M’s hearts, having been their home base for a previous trip to the area in 2008. The whimsical nature of this very Italian-feeling fishing village will seep into your soul. Instead of yachts, boat slips are filled with sailboats and simple skiffs for collecting sea creatures. There is something about this place that melts you. We dined in a cobblestone courtyard returning to sample Manny’s coveted favorite meal of all time… the Seabass, whole. With the feeling of Italy in the air, A finished the night by ordering up some Limoncello, while K sipped Manzana, an apple liquor from Spain. With a surprise fireworks show taking place above our heads, shooting from a barge in the harbor, and the acoustic classical guitar from a traveling performer, we breathed in and toasted to the good life. These are the moments in life that one could never forget.

We finished off our trip back at our base camp. A petit train ride around Cannes, a trip to the Musée de Castre on the cliff-side, wakeboarding at the beach, a walk through the awe inspiring yacht club, ridiculously expensive cocktails at The Carlton, dinner at Le Salon des Indépendants, a lively and welcoming spot in the Old Town, and then late night dancing with Paris Hilton (literally) at the Palais until 4am. We stumbled back to our hotel from pure exhaustion! Recovering from this vacation would take weeks!
The south of France is everything you’ve imagined it would be. The wine is just as exquisite as they say. The baguettes are unparalleled. The food all delicious. The shores are picturesque and the water and sky are just as blue. The streets are made for exploring. History surrounds you. Art is in everything. The images, tastes, and sounds will stay vividly in your mind forever. It will be a trip of a lifetime… only to be topped by your next visit.
Check out all of our pictures on Facebook or our photo album on Shutterfly!
BORDEAUX REGION
Saint Emilion
Saint Emilion is a mystical, magical, medieval little village amidst some of the world’s oldest vines, dating back to 27BC. The Bordeaux region boasts the red varieties of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec, and sometimes Carmenere and the white varieties of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Muscadelle. The village of St. Emilion was named after the 8th century monk, Emilion, who sought asylum from religious persecution in this town and lived as a hermit in a cave. He was said to have performed many miracles for the people around this present-day Bordeaux region. Hence, how this village got its name.
Later, followers of Emilion began to build a church out of a massive block of limestone, which is abundant in this region. There are countless stories and tales that have been passed down through generations about St. Emilion… including that this monolithic church was once a pilgrimage site for Crusaders and is connected to the Holy Grail. St. Emilion is not only world renowned for its vineyards, but also the thousands of years of history that this land bears. The town itself was deemed an UNESCO World Heritage Site and the Monolithic Church here is the largest in Europe.
Something we weren’t expecting from St. Emilion was its conservativeness. As active New Yorkers AND avid wine tasters, we visit New York wineries often enough to know the weekends are the peak times to go. Under such an assumption (why, I’m not sure!), we thought weekends would be bustling in St. Emilion. Since we arrived on Friday afternoon, we prepared ourselves for nonstop wine tasting, sight-seeing, and a full schedule of activities daily. Boy, did we need to slow down! We realized quickly that while weekend afternoons were moderately busy in town, weekend nights died down considerably. With a local population of just under 3,000 people, St. Emilion’s foot traffic is made mostly by tourists who pass through town in the early evening and are then onto the next stop. We were drawn by the magical ambiance that seemed to glow even from the photographs, as well as our love for St. Emilion’s Bordeaux. St. Emilion forced us to slow down immediately (actual, we came to a halting stop). We don’t know how to relax!
We completed the first activity on our agenda on day one at Château Villemaurine, a beautifully manicured and extraordinarily hospitable vineyard just steps from our hotel. We toured the unfathomable quarries under the town of St. Emilion and learned an in depth history from our guide. We learned that the Bordeaux region has 116,000 hectares of vineyards, 10,000 wine-producing châteaux, and a yield of 960 million bottles a year. In addition, all of the region’s best vineyards (boasting the Grands Crus label) are located on the limestone slab. Aside from learning so much history and sampling Villemaurine‘s exceptional wines, one of our favorite moments from our time there was our coffee and conversation with Villemaurine’s lovely manager, Sophie. Her warmth and hospitality added to our remarkable experience.
Although most of the city shuts down by 7pm, fortunately two restaurants proved to be reliable in the Place de l’Eglise Monolithe: Le Bouchon and Amelia Canta. Though we certainly would have enjoyed more variety, between the two venues, they offered a myriad of French and Italian favorites… how could we honestly complain about eating at the same restaurant three nights in a row under the stars in a medieval city whose skyline consisted of a medieval clock tower, roofs of ancient ruins, spires of cathedrals, and the steeple of Europe’s largest monolithic church?! In retrospect, it really was like a dream… sigh. And as nonstop, overzealous New Yorkers, sometimes we need to slow down… and St. Emilion was just the place to do it. Our mornings and afternoons in St. Emilion were full of fresh pastries, sipping wine, touring quarries, churches, biking through vineyards, and absorbing thousands of years of history… our nights slowed down and truly allowed us to stop and enjoy the vieux… ahem… view.
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Hôtel Logis des Remparts (www.logisdesremparts.com, 18 rue Guadet)
Tours
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Train des Grands Vignobles (Petit train tour through vineyards, 6E)
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Bike the French Countryside (Circuits of self guided tours through vineyards- Bikes available at Tourist Information Center [TI] for 15E/half day)
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Eglise Monolithe (The largest underground church in Europe built in the 9th century by monks)
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Catacombes, Grotte de l’Ermitage and Chapelle de la Trinite (Saint Emilion’s underground living quarters, ancient burial chambers and chapel, tours leave from the TI)
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Clocher (Church, clocktower and observation deck built on top of the ancient church, tours leave from the TI)
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Cloitre de l’Eglise Collegiale (Cloister with art exhibits located within the TI)
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Porte Brunet (Ancient main gate to the village, with walls from the moat that used to surround the perimeter)
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Porte de la Cadene (Ancient arch hovering over cobblestone street)
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Château Marquis de Terme (Our favorite! 1 hr away by car in Margaux, 3 Route de Rauzan)
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Château Villemaurine (On the border of town, weekday tours by appointment, extensive underground tunnels, 33330 Saint-Emilion)
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Château Gaffelière (On the border of town, tours by appointment and as walk-ins, including weekends)
Wine Tasting
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Over 20 local wine shops offer free tastings, just go in and ask. Many will also let you tour their underground caves and cellars like La Grande Cave de Saint-Emilion.
Food and Drinks
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Chai Pascal (Cheese and charcuterie)
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Amelia Canta and Le Bouchon (Located in the Place de l’Eglise Monolithe (plaza), the only ‘late night’ dining in the village)
Bordeaux
A cosmopolitan city located in the most renowned wine region of the world. It is only fitting that an area that has set the bar for wine production around the globe would offer such a picturesque gem of art, history, and sophistication at its helm. The architecture, most of which dates to the 18th century, is a true representation of the French style with which we are all familiar: ornate, detailed buildings with sculpted windows and crowns made entirely of limestone, in this case, harvested from the quarries of Saint Emilion. Our first impression of Bordeaux was that it so resembled Paris! In actuality, Paris was modeled after Bordeaux when it underwent a revitalization phase over 200 years ago.

Hugging the Garonne River, the body of water that separates the left and right banks of wine production, Bordeaux is a port city, and one that became quite rich because of trade. Its impressive waterfront was designed to flaunt the city’s wealth and it is where we began our visit. The quais (waterfront promenades) are a center of life in this metropolis. The quais host the large weekend markets, sporting facilities (skate park, hockey rink, basketball courts, etc), a public fountain for summer time splashing, and lots of gardens and grassy areas to relax in and take a nap. We indulged (in some wine and sleepy time) and watched the world pass us by as locals strolled along the boardwalk. If you continue to the far north end of Quai des Chartron you will find Quai des Marques, a developed, modern shopping area with a view of the water.
Instead, we headed into the city center, stopping for snacks along Quai Louis XVIII, at a friendly pub. Then we ventured through the Esplanade des Quinconces (large baron square) with its crowning jewel, the Monument aux Girondins. Heading to rue Sainte-Catherine, a large, pedestrian only shopping street, we passed tons of boutique and chain stores; however, everything was closed, as Sundays are truly a day of rest in France, even in the city. We had so much more to see, but unfortunately it would have to wait for another trip.
Strolling
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Quai des Chartron (Promenade on the left bank of Garonne River with tons of action! Grassy areas for napping, a boardwalk, water features and gardens.)
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Rue Saint-Catherine (Large, pedestrian only shopping street)
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Esplanade des Quinconces (expansive plaza) with the Monument aux Girondins
Shopping
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Quai des Marques (Polished shopping area on the water)
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Rue Saint-Catherine (Large, pedestrian only shopping street)
Markets
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Marche des Quais (Foods, Quai des Chartrons, Sundays 8am-4pm)
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Marche St. Michel (Rustic, vintage finds near St. Michel Church, 8am-2pm)
Lacanau
A classic surf town in France! Of course L+M had to check it out for themselves. According to the boys, this trip first started as a European surf excursion, but as things go in the 2+2 world, it blew up into a road trip from one side of France to the other! Despite the change in agenda, L+M made sure that somewhere in the jam-packed calendar there was time to surf… no matter how far the drive and how early they needed to wake up, they would get in some waves.
Lacanau is located about one hour from Bordeaux and one and a half hours from St. Emilion, where we were staying. With a 5 am wake up, L+M had no problem taking the drive if it meant getting ‘wet’ (a term referring to hitting the waves!). L located the Big Mama Surf Shop, a local joint that rents out surfboards for a day or more. We plugged the address into the GPS and we were on our way.
We had no idea what to expect when we arrived. As we got closer and closer to the coast, grape vines were replaced with pine trees and it was as if we were driving through a national forest. The village of Lacanau is filled with campsites, three golf courses, resort homes and hotels. The town’s accommodations can host up to 35,000 people at any given time. The busy beach town was bustling with most visitors utilizing bikes as their key form of transportation around town.
After the morning drive, L+M arrived at the beach and at the front door of the Big Mama Surf Shop. Picking up boards for a two day rental (30 Euro), they strapped on the leashes and jumped into the water. Although surfing is always tricky never knowing if the waves will be flat or ‘over-head’, on this particular day the waves weren’t half bad! The beautiful beach spans just over six miles and had surf that was just as challenging as back in NY (on the good days). If it weren’t for the afternoon wine tasting awaiting them back in Saint Emilion, the boys might have never gotten out. Thank goodness they would be returning again tomorrow…
L+M arrived earlier the next morning with their boards in tow from yesterday (not having to wait for the shop to open at 9 am). With even better surf today, they spent two hours in the water before returning their boards and heading to the car… but first a trip down the main drag through town! It was just going to be a drive-by, but as they got closer, they realized how happening the village was… maybe a drink was in order! The main town of Lacanau is filled with beach front restaurants, bars and shops spread out over two miles. M commented on its resemblance to Long Beach, California. Why weren’t the girls here? Most of the streets are made just for pedestrians and every place has outdoor seating. It was a bittersweet last drink as they toasted to a great two days of riding. At least they could say they surfed and got to experience this part of France. It left them wanting to return soon for a longer stay. Til next time…
Surfboard Rentals
PROVENCE
Aix en Provence
Aix-en-Provence (Aix for short or “X” phonetically) is a classic Provençal city located about 25 miles north of Marseille. Known as being the city of art and lights, it is probably most famous for being home to Cezanne (his later works) and its amazing architecture. The fountains within the city are beautiful accents to many major thoroughfares. The largest is on the main drag of Cours Mirabeau. Besides its rich history, Aix is a vibrant city filled with young students from France and around the world. As a home to three universities and a few schools for international students, Aix has an exciting and energetic feel, akin to being in the East Village.
We arrived late at night and were delighted to see that the Hotel St. Christophe was located in the center of town. The art deco hotel is a good value for the cost… as long as you reserve a renovated room. We awoke the next morning to a maze of winding, cobblestone streets filled with tiny clothing and jewelry boutiques, specialty food shops (a store dedicated entirely to gourmet cookies or one just for sampling olive oil!), al fresco cafes, outdoor craft fairs, and of course, the classic, quintessential Provençal market filled with fresh flowers, cheeses, produce, and seafood.
The Place Richelme market is a must see and an event unto itself. Open daily until around noon, the market sells fresh meat, cheese, vegetables and goods locally grown and made in Provence. It is impossible to walk through without buying something. A must-stop is the cheese stand. Owned and operated by a Marseille executive turned goat farmer, you will be hard pressed to taste fresher and more delicious goat cheese anywhere else. Once the afternoon begins, watch as the stands are hauled away and the square is hosed down. Cafe tables replace fruit stands and the plaza refills with patrons searching for al fresco dining and outdoor, street entertainers. Place Richelme is a center of life in Aix.
To narrow down the almost insane amount of restaurants to a small few is a tough task. The options are boundless and the Michelin Stars are aplenty. For a meal that won’t take too many Euros out of your pocket, try Pasta Cosy. Fresh made pastas with southern France flair all served by its energetic owner. For dessert, take a walk to any local pastry shop and have a calisson, a Provençal specialty made with a yellow paste of candied fruit and ground almonds topped with a layer of icing.
Our favorite activity of the stay in Aix was a fun cooking/taste-of-local-life class with some American transplants who provided a great feel of what it must be like to live in Aix day to day. Selecting fresh ingredients from the market, visiting separate specialty shops for eggs, then olive oil, then wine, and then spending an afternoon preparing your dishes, all while sipping a bottle of Rosé from Provence. After our four hour session, we learned a valuable lesson… the French take eating seriously! The two hour lunch is the standard.
We only stayed in Aix for two short days. Looking back we could have certainly used a few more. Sure there was more hanging out, exploring and eating to do, but Aix is a perfect jumping off point for other parts of Provence. The towns of Avignon, Orange, and Chateuaneuf-de-Pape are all short drives north of Aix. Each equally famous for their wines, art, and architecture, we will be sure to add them to the agenda on our next visit to the region.
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Hotel Saint Christophe (www.hotel-saintchristophe.com, Ask for a renovated room!, 2 Avenue Victor Hugo)
Strolling and Shopping
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Streets surrounding Place Richelme (with a maze of boutique shops and cafes)
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Rue Espariat near La Rotonde (with cafes and a night market featuring hats, bath products and crafts)
Boutiques
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La Cure Gourmande (Gourmet Cookies, 16 rue Vauvenargues)
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L’Occitane (Perfumes and Cream, 13 Aix en Provence)
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Oliviers & Co. (Olive oils, spreads, seasonings, 04300 Mane-en-Provence)
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Place Richelme (Mornings, daily, featuring fresh cheese, oil, produce, pastries, seafood)
Cooking Class
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Wine in Provence (www.wineinprovence.com; The Best of Aix: Market, Cooking and Wine, 120€ pp, 10am-2pm, in English; Additional classes available on their website)
Food and Drinks
Museum
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Musée Granet (Picasso and Cezanne exhibit, www.museegranet-aixenprovence.fr, Place St Jean de Malte, 10€)
Spa
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Thermes Sextius (Spa over ancient baths fed by natural hot springs, www.thermes-sextius.com, 55 Avenue des Thermes)
Nearby towns
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Avignon- Palais des Papes (magnificent, hilltop palace and fortress, 11E)
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Orange- Roman Arc de Triomphe; Roman Theatre
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Chateauneuf-de-Pape- Wine Museum (Free daily, 9am-12pm, 2pm-6pm).
FRENCH RIVIERA
Marseille
Marseille has quite a reputation. K had it on our ‘must-see’ list, but after several conversations with locals, we can’t help but admit that they made us second guess our plan. Tales of grimy streets, seedy characters and even car-jackings… they really painted quite a scene. We changed our plan from spending an afternoon in the city, to a quick drive through the Vieux-Port (Old Port) and then an afternoon in nearby and highly recommended Cassis. Well upon arrival, we instantly wondered what all the talk was about?
While we did only visit the tourist section of town, it was lovely! Just like the rest of the Riviera, you can’t go wrong with soaring cliffs, deep-blue water and ancient architecture. Yachts and sailboats filled the slips and dozens of outdoor cafes hugged the harbor. Upon the horizon, The Abbey of Saint Victor and the Basilica of Notre-Dame-de-la Garde sat on the hilltops… staples of the Marseille skyline. We quickly regret our decision (although Cassis was even more beautiful!), and it is now back on the list of places to return. There was so much that we missed!
As the second largest city in France, the majority of the metropolis has a different feel than the Vieux-Port. The plethora of North African immigrants has provided the city with different cultural influences including lots of ethnic cuisine, markets, and hookah! The French hip hop music scene is also driven from Marseille. For those looking for the traditional French culture found in the rest of the region, there are tons museums ranging from history, to fashion, to modern art. There is also a collection of some of the oldest churches in Europe with dating as far back as the 4th century. There is just something so spectacular about standing where others have stood for over 1500 years! Marseille is definitely worth a visit.
Strolling
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Panier Quarter (France’s oldest port north of the Vieux-Port; Mostly destroyed by the Nazis, the remains are small streets and old buildings)
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Vieux-Port (Main harbor and marina guarded by two forts)
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The Abbey of Saint Victor (History since 5th century, Roman fortified monastery on the hilltop by the port; One of the oldest places of Christian worship in Europe)
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Basilica of Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde (Massive, white hilltop church with lookout point to the Court House and Opera House)
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Cathedral of Sainte-Marie-Majeure (Founded in the 4th century)
Museums
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La Charite Museum (Celtic, Greek, Roman and Egyptian artifacts, 10am-5pm)
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Musée d’Histoire (Greek and Roman history, located in the Centre Bourse)
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Musée de la Mode (Modern fashion)
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Musée Cantini (Modern art including Picasso, near Palais de Justice)
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Musée de Vieux Marseille (Describes everyday life in Marseille from the 18th century)
Cannes
Lights. Camera. Action! Cue one of the world’s most famous cities! Cannes is notorious for its annual film festival, started in 1939, when the city becomes jam packed with international celebrities and tourists hoping to secure a piece of the glitz and glamour of this seaside city. While many might not feel that Cannes has the quaintness or charm of other Riviera towns, one might just have to dig a little deeper to find it… because it’s surely there!
With many distinct sections and scenes, no matter where you go, one thing that’s always present is the lively, action packed vibe! This is NOT a sleepy, Bordeaux region town! A walk along the harbor front is a perfect way to get acquainted with Cannes. Soak in the rays and observe all of the fun-loving beach goers participating in the plethora of water sports (after all, waterskiing was invented in the Riviera!). The strip is full of public and private beach clubs to recline, relax and breathe in the sea air, all while sipping a very sophisticated cocktail. Divine. If you’ve got deep pockets, hop on your yacht for a cruise along the Cote d’Azur or charter one complete with captain from either of the two main harbors. Cannes and yachts go hand in hand. The absolute best way to see the coast is from the cerulean sea.

Glamour exudes from every pore of the Boulevard de la Croisette, the palm tree lined thoroughfare hugging the waterfront coast. High end! High end! High end! Outrageous shoppes. Luxurious hotels with 50+ years of high society history. The most expensive martini you have ever ordered. All located one after the other. Dine with royalty, celebrities and the world’s most powerful… all there to enjoy the perfect weather and sights. It will be like a scene from a movie.
Located just behind la Croisette, dive into the maze of streets just off the main drag. Absolutely bustling into the wee-hours of the morning, hop from streets with dinner time restaurants, then avenues packed with al fresco bars for after-dinner-drinks, finishing off with thumping-house-music clubs complete with girls a top tables and free flowing cocktails. Cars, clothes and beauty are all like scenes from a magazine.
For an equally fun and exciting experience, but with a ton of old French charm, take a walk through Quartier Historique, the Old Town. You’ll see the locals sitting outside, drinking wine, playing cards, and bantering in French… probably muttering something about how Cannes used to be a quiet little village. The restaurants have a local, cozy feel, the shopping is far more reasonable where bargaining is encouraged, and the food shoppes will make you drool! The pedestrian-only streets will provide hours of exploring.
The daily Marché Forville is located right in the center of this locals section of town. Essentially the Cannes’ ‘supermarket’, pick up some fresh cheeses, slices of cured meat right off the pig’s leg, and a bottle of wine as you’re passing through, all directly from the source. There is no better way to buy your meal. With a full shopping bag, head back to your hotel’s terrace and enjoy. You will be so full, you won’t even consider going out for dinner.
When the lights go out, it’s time to put your party clothes on! We started with fabulous cocktails at The Carlton Hotel, where Grace Kelly meet her Prince! Then its time to party all night long at one of Cannes’ many hotspots, like the Palais Club, the massive super club with rooftop hookah bar and celebrity hosts. If you still can’t bear to head home yet, finish off your night at one of the two casinos… nothing better than a night of debauchery and throwing some cash down on black. Cannes is the perfect marriage of the old and new. It will definitely not disappoint!
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Hotel Spendid (www.splendid-hotel-cannes.fr, 4 & 6 rue Felix Faure)
Strolling
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Boulevard de la Croisette (Explore high end shops and harborside luxury hotels like The Carlton and The Martinez)
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Quartier Historique (Quaint, historic section of town with narrow, hilly streets)
Shopping
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Rue de Antibes (Average priced boutiques on one end and luxe on the other)
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Petits Trains Touristiques de Cannes (Petite train tour offering both historic and scenic views of the city)
Museums
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Musée de la Castre (Castle of Cannes, located in the Historic Quarter overlooking the city)
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Musée de la Mer (Monastery that inspired The Man in the Iron Mask, located on the Ile Sainte Marguerite, a 15 minute boat ride away)
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Parasailing, Wakeboarding, Tubing (Available at Plages de la Croisette)
Ports
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Vieux Port; Port Canto (Two harbors on either side of town full of yachts)
Markets
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Marché Forville (Daily, huge, fresh food)
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Antique market (Saturday morning in town plaza)
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Salon des Independants (Amazing, price-fix meal in Quartier Historique. Rated #1 on TripAdvisor.com! Fun, lively restaurant)
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Le Bateau Restaurant (1 Quai Albert Edouard)
Dancing
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Palais Club (Dance club with celebrity hosts and performances)
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Le Dadada (15 Rue des Freres Pradignae)
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Beach Dance Club (On the Plages de la Croisette next to the Palais, Wednesday nights)
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Casino Croisette (Passport required for entry)
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Casino Palm Beach (Passport required for entry)
Event Center
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Palais des Festivals (Hosts movie screenings and events)
Tourist Information Center
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(Next to Palais): For booking boat rentals, excursions, tours
Nearby Towns
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Antibes- Boat Rentals and Watersports; Picaso Museum
Cassis
When one envisions the Riviera (whether based on fact or just your imagination), you are dreaming of Cassis. You didn’t realize it, but it all becomes clear once you finally set eyes on it. Bluffs jetting out into the Mediterranean. Winding roads through hillsides. Breathtaking crescent shaped beaches (filled with topless ladies and men in Speedos). It was one of the most beautiful views we’ve ever seen; the landscape, not the Speedos! The view and the surf are what you are here for.
We had a hard time finding parking as all of the tiny little town lots were filled (a vespa would have come in handy!); however, once we finally found hillside parking, the walk down from our elevated spot provided us with some of the best pictures of the trip. We found our way to the Quai des Baux, the main street in the harbor, and settled in at one of the many outdoor, waterside cafes. Your main activity here? Watching the world go by. We were getting really good at it; a far cry from our typical lives in New York! Order a glass of rosé or a refreshing Kir Royale (Crème de Cassis and Champagne), enjoy the view, and think of nothing.
The town’s famous soaring cliffs, used by sailors as landmarks, are quite a site. The rock excavated from Cassis is its most famous export! The Stone of Cassis lines all of the major Mediterranean ports like Alexandria, Algiers, and Port Said. It is also located in New York City, as the base of the Statue of Liberty! Most would think that Crème de Cassis would be the town’s claim to fame, but cassis actually refers to the main ingredient of the liqueur, blackcurrants. Produced in Burgundy, it is popular all over France, but perfectly suited for a refreshing Riviera cocktail.
Strolling, Shopping, Food and Drinks
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Quai des Baux and Promenade Aristide Briand (Promenade with yachts, boutiques and cafes)
Saint Tropez
What started as a petite and charming fishing village has grown into one of the most exclusive destinations for the jet-set in the world. First artists came to paint the glorious landscape, then Coco Chanel made it her playground in the 1920s, with Brigitte Bardot officially putting it on the map in the 1950s. (Brigitte, still residing in the town, offers autographs every Thursday in front of the Tourist Information, where she still sits from 3:00 to 5:30pm). From then on, the rest is history.
With 5 kilometers of beaches along the Baie de Pampelonne, visitors flock to sprawl out on the sand in the private (and public) beach clubs. Although every watersport is available on the beach, the biggest attraction is the boats… or should we say…yachts. Quai Gabriel Peri and Quai Jean-Jaures, promenades lining the Vieux Port, are overflowing with the most massive, private floating hotels we’ve ever seen. A couple could definitely be mistaken for small cruise ships.
If you aren’t in the water or on the water, then the main attraction is looking at the water. Almost every establishment along the waterfront is a restaurant, and setting up shop for a 3-course lunch with a spot in the window, is just par for the course. Plan to stay a while… it’s why you are here. Cocktails, wine, and then coffee… at lunch… on a Tuesday. Seafood is an obvious specialty and we all partook, even A with a giant bowl of mussels (who is this girl?!). Our lunch at Le Girelier was perfectly situated for people watching and we spent many hours leisurely munching and viewing passers-by.
The boys in need of a dip in the salty Mediterranean Sea, jumped right off low rocky cliffs at Tour de Portalet, while the girls (as usual), headed out to explore the surrounding streets. This town was made for shopping, but the cobblestone streets were not made for heels (how can you adequately shop in flats?)! While boutiques in Saint Emilion focus on wine and those in Aix en Provence often involve gourmet and fresh food, Saint Tropez is all about goods. A girl’s dream. Dresses, handbags, shoes, jewelry, hats, scarves, vintage, luxury, designer… everything you could ever want. Now all you need is an endless wallet. While the majority of the shopping involves interesting and inventive boutiques (often priced within reason), you will also find your favorite luxe classics, a la the Chanel Château (with Chanel front gates) as you enter town.
While by now you’ve concluded that Saint Tropez is a definite spot on your next vacation, what you must now consider is how you will get there. While the car served us well for our other excursions, unless you are sporting a Lamborghini, leave your dorky rental car at home… the traffic is horrendous. As we sat for hours, crawling into town, we wondered if anyone would notice if we left our Ford Focus parked right in the middle of the road. We would pay good money to jump on the back of any one of the Vespas that so effortlessly darted in between cars! We later learned that boats also leave from nearby towns (like Cannes) and deliver you right to the port… a way better idea than driving. But if you really want our recommendation on how to arrive, there is only one: sail your massive yacht right into the harbor and have your captain drop you off via helicopter of course. You want to live like a local right?
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rue Gambetta, rue des Commercants, place de la Croix de Fer (Street after street of boutiques; the entire town is shopping!)
Market
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Place des Lices (Goods, food and people watching, Saturday mornings)
Beach and Beach Clubs
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Tour de Portalet (Jump off rocks into the blue Mediterranean)
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Nikki Beach (Tops optional, Plage de Pampelonne- Route de l’Epi, 35€ for a sunbed)
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Brigantin II (One hour cruise of coastal mansions leaving from Vieux Port in front of Café de Paris, 9€)
Food and Drinks
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Le Girelier (Seaside Seafood)
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Cafe Senequier (Well known brasserie)- Both offer dining on the Quais (Quai Gabriel Peri and Quai Jean-Jaures)
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La Tarte Tropezienne (Pastry shop selling St. Tropez signature sweets)
Nice
If you are looking to fly straight to the French Riviera, Nice is the hub. As the second largest city on this beautiful coast, it is filled with everything thing you would want in a seaside city. Whether you are looking for relaxation on the beach, culture at its many museums, or a souvenir shopping spree, this city will surely keep you busy. Plus the ornate and colorful architecture is sure to make your camera happy with tons of perfect, picturesque backdrops for your 8″ x 10″ living room proof of your Riviera adventure.
K+M had visited Nice on a previous trip to the area and had spent two days here exploring the local offerings. However with 2+2′s tight schedule, this was going to be a quick visit. With only a half day in the city, we perfectly planned our five hours to maximize the experience. K+M highlighted the memorable sights, and weeded out the B-list… and were left with an ideal mix of art, sites, parks and delicious eats.

We arrived early for some coffee and culture in Cimiez, a wealthy neighborhood just north of the main city center. With pastries from a small local boulangerie, we arrived at Nice’s ‘museum row’, the home of the Matisse and Chagall museums. Joined by a lovely olive tree lined park, the museums are just a short walk from each other and are the making for a perfect morning. The Chagall Museum features the artist’s colorful, non-traditional biblical works, which utilize purple and blue hues and abstract images. In contrast, the Matisse Museum highlights pieces over the course of the artist’s whole life, including his latest works where he used colorful, cut out templates when he could not longer paint or draw due to illness. After a look at the historic archeological excavation site just off the park, we enjoyed our coffees with a view of the vintage carousel. It was time to head downtown.

We started at the Place Massena, a vibrant town plaza with a massive checkerboard floor, sculptures and seating. With the trains and bus terminal nearby, its a convenient spot to visit. Only a few steps away, we entered the small, pedestrian-only streets of Vieux Nice (Old Nice) was where we spent our time peeking into boutiques, bakeries, restaurants, gelaterias and churches. You can’t resist stopping and grabbing some gelato (at least A+M did) while taking the stroll to the open air market. After making a few souvenir stops, we just had one more stop to make before heading out of the city: Promenade des Anglais. The view of the impressive promenade is breathtaking and we all wished that we had some more time to spend here. But unfortunately, time had run out and it was time for us to head to the next town…
Strolling
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Promenade des Anglais (Seaside promenade with impressive waterfront buildings)
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Place Massena (Massive, manicured town square near bus station)
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Cimiez (Wealthy neighborhood near Matisse and Chagall Museums)
Museums
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Musée Matisse (Nudes, sculpture, cut outs, all created in Nice, www.musee-matisse-nice.org, 164 av. des Arenes de Cimiez, Free)
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Musée National Message Biblique Marc-Chagall (Non-traditional, biblical themed, www.musee-chagall.fr, av. du Dr. Menard, 6.50€)
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Musée des Beaux-Arts (Monet among others, www.musee-beaux-arts.nice.org, 33 av. Des Baumettes, Free)
Villefranche-Sur-Mer
Situated on the most perfect little inlet, Villefranche-sur-Mer is a truly a hidden gem on the Mediterranean Sea. It is a small fishing village on the Côte d’Azur, more famously known as the French Riviera. While the Riviera is known for its glitz and glamour, Villefranche offers a slice of authenticity with its delicious restaurants, one local boulangerie, and sprinkling of markets. The petite vieille ville is THE attraction, hosting all of the town’s restaurants, boutiques, and drink spots. It’s impossible to get lost in this little village… but try! Wander in and out the narrow, carless streets and absorb the vibrant colors, rich scents, and the dull sounds of classical guitar echoing from the Port. You may feel as though you’ve left France and accidentally stumbled across the border of Italy… but you are not quite mistaken.

Villefranche-sur-mer was owned by Italy until 1860, just before it was handed over to France as Italy was undergoing the Risorgimento (reunification of Italy). The Italian influence is unmistakable in this small town. The brilliant pinks, yellows, and oranges that are so characteristic of Italian port cities are ubiquitous here… as are other Italian staples like gnocchi and ravioli (they were actually invented in Nice!), limoncello, and gelato. Villefranche exemplifies the best of both Italy and France… which makes it the incredibly magical town that it is.

Spend some time on the waterfront… lounge out and enjoy the view, whether from one of the many cafes or restaurants that stretch along the port, or from the beach itself. Get a pre-dinner drink on one of the terraces, such as Le Cosmo, which overlooks the small church, old town, and the port. Then venture off to our favorite restaurant in the center of the old town for truly delicious fare and great local hospitality. We cannot say enough about Villefranche. It holds a truly special place in our hearts and we are sure to revisit for a lifetime.
- Vieille Ville (the old town) and Port …. the main event!
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Walk to Cap Ferrat (50 minute walk to a beautiful peninsula)
Sites
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Chapel of St. Pierre (Town church)
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Citadel (Town’s massive, fortified castle)
Food and Drink
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Les Garçons (Manny’s favorite meal ever!)
Nearby Towns
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Eze (Walled village perched above sea)
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Nid d’Aigle (Honest food in old town)
Monaco
What is there to write about Monaco that hasn’t been written before? Well… nothing really. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t go there. It’s freaking Monaco for crying out loud. The home of Princess Grace and Prince Rainier III, Monte Carlo, the Grand Prix of Monaco, outrageous cars, massive yachts, one of the most amazing marinas in the world, and an incredible amount of history for a 0.75-mile Principality.
Unless you are outrageously rich and in town on your yacht ready to rub elbows with Robin Leach like you’re in an episode of Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous, there really is no reason to stay in Monaco. Our recommendation is to spend a day or an afternoon exploring the town, ahem, Principality. Getting to Monaco is half the fun. The train rides from Nice or Villefranche-sur-Mer are beautiful and the trains come and go day and night. Don’t worry about getting stuck at the station after spending your last Euro at the Monte Carlo Casino. Driving into Monaco is another story. There are three roads in and out known as the high, middle, and low corniches. Taking the high road in is an easy drive and the view of the Principality when you round the mountain is unforgettable. Manual car drivers beware: the entire town starts at the top of a mountain and dives straight to the Mediterranean. Navigating the streets in a manual can be a daunting task for the novice or intermediate.

Regardless of how you get to Monaco, there are a few things you must see and do. First, take a stroll around the mean streets of Monaco and check out indigenous life. It’s worth it to see the real life Monacins (made that word up) doing their thing. After, head into Monte Carlo and check out the casino and the surrounding area. If you are like us there is at least an hour of time lost ogling the cars outside. If you are a gambler, pay the entry fee and try your luck at one of the tables. Be advised, there is a dress code (though it doesn’t look like anyone follows it). Just outside the Monte Carlo is the Café de Paris. Take a siesta here and enjoy a drink near the walkway to watch the comings and goings of the casino.
Before heading to the Prince’s Palace of Monaco, walk through the high end shopping area and down to the marina for a up close and personal view of the yachts. The walk up the hill to the Palace may be tiring but the views along the way are well worth it. Frequent stops for photos are a must. At the top, the palace may seem a little underwhelming architecturally, but the square is gorgeous. After reminiscing about all the history, take a stroll through the winding streets of the plateau. Pick up a few trinkets or t-shirts and you have basically exhausted what there is to do in Monaco.
If you took the train in, head back to the station and head to Villefranche-sur-Mer for dinner in one of the most amazing little French Riviera towns. For the drivers and fans of Formula 1, no trip would be complete without a drive along the famous Grand Prix of Monaco straightaway of the Route de la Piscine. After doing your best Graham Hill impression, take the low road along the Mediterranean as the sun is setting and put a check mark next to Monaco on your bucket list.
Strolling and Shopping
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Avenue de Monte Carlo and Avenue des Beaux-Arts (Around casino, opera house, Hotel de Paris)
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Ave d’Ostende and Harbor (High end luxury labels and yachts)
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Old Monaco Ville (Little souvenir shops and cafes perched on the hilltop, surrounding Prince’s Palace)
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Avenue Saint Martin (Cliffside views of the sea from the old town, near aquarium)
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Opéra de Monte Carlo (Opera house)
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Hôtel de Paris (Famous hotel overlooking the Monte Carlo Casino and plaza)
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Palais du Prince (Prince Rainier’s palace in Old Monaco Ville, Guard changing ritual daily at 11:55am, Daily tours)
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Monaco Cathedral (Princess Grace was married and buried, Avenue Saint Martin)
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Jardin Exotique and Japanese Garden (Formal gardens)
Museum
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Musée Oceanographie (Aquarium directed by Jacques Cousteau, West side of harbor, Daily 9am-7pm, 60 French Francs)
Gambling
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Monte Carlo Casino (Luxury classic casino, requires entrance fee 20E)
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Casino de Paris (American Casino, no entrance fee, simple)- Passport required for entrance.
Food and Drink
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Le Café de Paris (Al fresco dining overlooking the Monte Carlo casino and the luxury cars)
A: I can’t say enough about this trip. An incredible journey of beauty, history and food. A trip that you will have day dreams about for the rest of your life and the gold standard for all other adventures to come…
K: When you visit a place for the first time, you can’t imagine when you’ll ever make it back….especially with so many cities to visit and so little time. When I left Villefranche three years ago, I really believe I left part of myself there….I just absolutely loved it. Who would have known I would return again just a few years later?! It was just as I remembered it….I know I will return again. There is just something between France and me…. and it’s true love.
L: Like 5 mini trips in one. Mixing a surf trip with all the wineries and the French Riviera was just crazy. Throw in amazing food and great friends and you get a never-forget-experience.
M: This was my second time here and I still can’t wait to go back. This trip was awesome and I wish I had more time in each place. Next time more surfing!











































