Step One: Denial. “Do you wanna grab some brunch?” “No, we really shouldn’t. There’s so much to do today. I have a pile of laundry. I have to clean up the backyard and then run to the post office. Blah. Blah. Blah.” OR “We just went out last night and we are going out tomorrow night. We should probably stay in and save some money.” BORING.

Step Two: Go local. “Hmmm. I guess you are right ____ (insert the name of whoever is playing the rational person at that moment). Well, what do you think about just grabbing something local?” And sometimes A+L do stop here. We’ve got a pretty good list of local spots we’ve developed over our 3 years of living in Nassau County. See reviews of Left Coast Kitchen and Cocktails, the Allegria Hotel, Waterzooi and Prime.

Step Three: Go the distance. NYC is always the objective. It’s not the journey that’s the problem… It’s the vortex situation. Once you select your venue, get properly dressed in brunch attire (heels are a must!), grab your brunch +2 (it’s always a social event!) and begin the festivities, it’s becomes a day-long affair. All of a sudden you’ve been eating, chatting and drinking for 3+ hours and all you can think of is where you are going next. You are awake, dressed, surrounded by friends and buzzed. Come to grips with the fact that today won’t be a productive one.

More often than not, we commit. We just can’t get enough. For sure favorites has Bobby Flay’s Mesa Grill (Southwestern in Union Square) topping our list, as well as The Standard Grill (Classic American at the Standard Hotel, Meatpacking), Beco (Brazilian in Williamsburg, Brooklyn) and Pachanga Patterson (a spin on Mexican in Astoria, Queens). These places are guaranteed to deliver, plus you can’t beat the post-brunch activities of the stellar surrounding neighborhoods.

But this post is all about our classics… a couple of A+L’s and New York’s all time favorites! On two recent breakfast outings we picked two completely different places. The first requires a little forethought. To say that Balthazar is a hot spot is an understatement. Don’t think for a second that you are showing up without a reservation and getting in. It’s not happening… unless you don’t mind waiting at the bar until the next day. In a prime location, this French bistro is jumping at all hours of the day. Their brunch rates high on our list. Hangover cocktails, flaky, buttery baked goods and all our favorite Parisian offerings. Balthazar is a place to flaunt your favorite heels and meet your friends for a classy (and boozy) breakfast.

On the opposite end of the spectrum, Veselka in the East Village is a completely casual, diner-esque experience with outdoor sidewalk seating and a tasty Ukrainian flair. We’ve been more times than we can count and can’t get enough of their pierogies and potato pancakes… in addition to our breakfast! On our most recent visit, we made a pre-breakfast stop at Abraco, a soon to be NYC staple, for hands down, the best coffee ever. Finishing (or starting!) off our morning with a casual stroll around our old stomping grounds, is the perfect touch to either breakfast outing.

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Coffee and Pastries- A+L

Abraco Espresso

86 East 7th Street, NYC

Exceptionally small (in size) and incredibly good, we can’t stop thinking about Abraco! L stumbled upon this adorable, tiny coffee bar by accident, and brought A back for a morning visit on a beautiful sunshiny day. Nearly 75% of the one room establishment consists of their kitchen which astoundingly holds three people. Step into the front door and occupy the other 25% of the room… along with about 5 or 6 other shoulder-to-shoulder patrons. Like an IKEA commercial, they’ve made efficient use of their space, and we were lucky enough to secure a spot along the window complete with a narrow ledge to place our goodies in between bites/sips. Being swooshed is part of the appeal!

With a true neighborhoody vibe, we stood adjacent to three (seemingly) ‘regulars’ so were in the middle of an interesting, artsy and comical banter with a couple of the employees… a la a Woody Allen movie. During their exchange, we placed our order and the staff proceeded to hand brew our coffees in adorable glass cups with little filters. It was a process, and the final product was truly remarkable. Hands down one of the best cups of coffee we’ve ever had.

To accompany our caffeine, we ordered up a couple of snacks… a Cured Olive Cookie and a flaky Croissant, and they were delish! All of their baked goods are freshly made in house, as well as their morning fritatta. At lunch time, they offer an assortment of freshly made seasonal snack specials. When the weather is fine, pick up your sandwich and lean up against one of the small outdoor table/ledges and chat with the other patrons. An adorable, and delicious little spot!

What we ate…

Drinks

• Cappuccino (A)
• Espresso (L)

Food

• Croissant (A+L)
• Cured Olive Cookie (A+L)

A: Wooza! The best cup of coffee ever. I can’t wait to return for that crispy Cured Olive Cookie. 

Our Rating Scales…

• Scene- Quaint and cozy coffee and pastry bar
• Food/Drinks- 4: Stellar! Wouldn’t change a thing!
• Tip Worthy- 3: Gratuity Included
  
• Coordinates- 4: Neighborhood- Centrally located
• Restaurant Return Rate- Green light!
  

Breakfast/Lunch/Dinner- A+L

Veselka

144 Second Avenue, NYC

An East Village staple, Veselka has been a favorite of ours for more than a decade. Established in 1954, this corner joint is jumping for breakfast, lunch and dinner. We always tend to think of it as ‘diner’ like, but with an array of Ukrainian classics added into the mix. Typically we visit for an American breakfast with a kielbasa twist, or for a late night dinner complete with a heaping helping of pierogies. Yum. Describing their menu as ‘Ukrainian Soul Food’, expect at least a short wait at any time of the day for their homemade dishes.

Complement your typical breakfast egg, french toast, pancake and pastry (all from scratch!) choices with incredible homemade corned beef hash, blintzes, farina and potato pancakes. Accompany your salad with some Ukrainian staple soups like Cabbage and Borscht (along with all your typical favorites like Chili, Split Pea and Matzoh Ball). And for dinner, you will find it hard to not go overboard. Although you won’t be disappointed by one of their juicy burgers, mix it up with a sandwich like the Reuben (thinly sliced Krakovska, Swiss Cheese, Sauerkraut and Homemade Russian Dressing on 7 Grain Bread) or the Ukrainian Meatball (with Mushroom Gravy and Sauerkraut on Challah Baguette). The specialty entrees are where the ethnic flair really shines through with offerings like Beef Stroganoff, Veal Goulash, Stuffed Cabbage and Kielbasa.

No matter the meal, Veselka is always a casual dining experience with seating inside and out on the sidewalk. They’ve become so popular now that they even have their own cookbook and a brand new location in the Bowery featuring a contemporary spin on Ukrainian classics. There’s a reason why this place has been around for nearly 60 years.

What we ate… (over numerous visits)

Food

• Eggs, Toast and Homemade Corned Beef Hash
• Eggs, Pancakes and Kielbasa
• Pier0gies with Sauteed Onions, Apple Sauce and Sour Cream
• Various Soups
• Char-broiled Deluxe Burger
• Egg Noodles
• Potato Pancakes
• Veal Goulash
• Beef Stroganoff

A: Sometimes in the morning, I wake up and Veselka is the first thing I think of. I should branch out more than I do, but I can’t help but routinely fill my belly with their pierogies and potato pancakes. Redic!

Our Rating Scales…

• Scene- Casual 24 hour diner with a Ukrainian flare
• Food/Drinks- 3.5: Pleasantly Stellar
• Tip Worthy- 3: Gratuity included
  
• Coordinates- 4: Neighborhood- Centrally located
• Restaurant Return Rate- Absolutely Green!
  

Brunch/Dinner- A+L

Balthazar

80 Spring Street, NYC

Located in a prime location just above Houston, Balthazar’s front doors are constantly overflowing the patrons trying to secure a seat. Don’t even think about walking in without a reservation, unless of course you don’t mind waiting for a couple of hours. Inside and out, Balthazar is the quintessential French bistro. Complete with distressed mirrors, dark wood finishes and globe lights, the decor will transport you to a Parisian brassiere. While waiting for your table, squeeze yourself into the bar for a glass of vin or a beautifully mixed alcoholic creation. Although you can technically eat at the bar, this is one place that we wouldn’t recommend it. It’s just so busy and the experience just won’t compare to that which you’d have at a seat.

As one of restauranteur Keith McNally’s mainstay spots, it opened it’s doors in 1997, and has been a success ever since. Serving breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner, any meal will be sure to please. Highly decorated Chef Eric Ripert has commented that this is one of his favorite restaurants in all of NYC and frequents it regularly. Famous for its bakery, we loved visiting for brunch, where Le Panier, a basket of their fabulous baked goods is a must. Honestly, it’s so big that you could share that and some coffee and be full. But that doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t order more food!

A full raw bar and all the French classics (think Salade Nicoise, Chicken Paillard and Steak Frites) are staples on the menu and at brunch, the selection of egg dishes is pretty extensive, along with Apple Cinnamon Pancakes (!), Crepes (!!) and Brioche French Toast (!!!). Accompany your meal with one of their signature ‘Hangover Drinks’ (try the Champagne-Pick-Me-Up or the Oyster Mary), your best friends and your appetite, because you won’t be leaving anytime soon.

For dinner, the menu is truly mouthwatering. The Warm Goat Cheese and Caramelized Onion Tart is a favorite. Entrees range from Sauteed Skate and Duck Shepard’s Pie to Braised Pork Cheeks and the Grilled Lamb T-bone. Finish it off with a balanced cheese plate and you will be a happy camper. After you fall in love with Balthazar, check out some of its sister restaurants. Our favorites including Pastis, Lucky Strike and Morandi’s.

What we ate…

Drinks

• Champagne-Pick-Me-Up [Champagne, V.S. Cognac, Orange Juice and Grenadine] (A)
• Oyster Mary [Vodka, Clamato Juice, Tabasco and Lemon Juice] (L)

Food

• Le Panier [a basket of freshly baked breads and pastries from their bakery] (A+L)
• Egg Florentine with Spinach and Artichoke (A)
• Onion Soup Gratinee (L)
• Salade Nicose (L)
• Assiette de Fromages (A+L)

A: I love the French bistro. Plain and simple, I can’t get enough. Balthazar does it exceptionally well. Love it. A New York staple.

Our Rating Scales…

• Scene- Classic, high end, New York-French bistro
• Food/Drinks- 4: Pleasantly stellar!
• Tip Worthy- 4: Double the tax and thensome
  
• Coordinates- 4: Neighborhood- Centrally located
• Restaurant Return Rate- Green light
  

With a lifelong affinity to the (back-then) grittier side of the city, we can’t help but to gravitate to downtown’s east side for any gathering of birthday fun. Old habits die hard. Growing up in NYC, we didn’t use a different town name for every 5 block radius. ‘Downtown’ consisted of the West Village, the East Village, Alphabet City and Soho… that was it. Each neighborhood was distinct and different. As you crossed ‘borders’, you felt it.

As it was back then and still is today, Soho holds high end boutiques, and the West Village has a plethora of cozy dining spots. However, a lot has changed on the east side. The East Village and Alphabet City are nearly unrecognizable. Gone are the punk rock venues, both extreme and vintage clothing outfitters, record shops, dive bars and droves of wandering kids home based in Washington Square Park. Today you can pick up a latte on every corner, but you can’t find a damn Mohawk anywhere!

Am I complaining? I can’t really decide. I kinda like lattes.

While we still love punk rock and an offbeat outfit, we’re not sure we’re still up for the dive bar and we’re all so far up Apple’s ass that there’s no way we are going back to records. It looks like both us and the East Side have done some growing up… and it’s still our fave. It now houses more stylish and casual evening options than anyone could ever want… yet, we will be happy to take more! Forever expanding, selecting your downtown, east-side destination can be overwhelming!

A little forethought is key. Don’t be THAT guy. The one that drags all of their friends to a venue and THEN finds out that the place smells like puke and the food will make you best friends with your toilet for the remainder of the weekend (true story people!). Or that entrees are so expensive that someone orders an appetizer salad and waters and makes a giant stink about the check at the end of the night. And worse yet… having no plan at all and the chaos that ensues as a large group of people blankly stare at each other (or argue) trying to figure out where to go next. We have been witness (and victim) to these scenarios way to often! We are strict advocates for a well planned birthday dinner.

There are a couple of simple things to consider when inviting more than your favorite couple out for a night on the town. These are rudimentary… common sense even, yet why does everyone keep breaking them?

1. Location. Is there a before and after dinner option within walking distance? Will the ladies start to complain about trekking miles in their heels? Will everyone be able to make it there on time after work?

2.Pre-dinner cocktails are a must; a strict necessity when having a large group! Not only does it gather everyone together so that you can arrive on time, in unison, for your reservation at the restaurant, but it gets the bulk of the drinking out of the way making the dinner check situation that much simpler for your cheapo (but loving) friends.

3. The Meal. Should not be Indian or Vegetarian, or anything that only a subset of people would like. While it’s your day, you still want your friends to show up and actually like you afterwards, right? Most importantly, it shouldn’t be too expensive, even if your friends have cash to throw down. When drinks start flowing freely, the check expands exponentially. Save the more expensive locations for before or after dinner so it’s easy for your guests to opt out (either financially or physically) if they want.

4. Size matters. Do 45 people really need to come out to dinner on your birthday? Where the heck are you going to find a place to accommodate everyone? Are they all actually going to show? Unless you are hosting a private party, keep your guest list to the smaller side… there’s no way you are going to be able to talk to everyone anyway. Plus, the food will take foreverrrr to come out of the kitchen and will usually be cold or inedible.

So… taking this all in to account we started our detailed analysis of the options for A’s birthday, complete with lots of Google Maps scenarios, online review comparisons, and a spreadsheet. Ok, now that we’ve put this in print, it’s pretty clear that we’ve lost it… a spreadsheet?!  It’s true. We are anal retentive and that’s just how we roll. After a collaborative effort, we came to a final verdict.

Our night started at The Back Room, a 1920’s style cocktail bar housed in a former prohibition speakeasy! We love a little history and a good story, so this was right up our alley (literally). To FIND the entrance, locate the bouncer standing within a small gate on the sidewalk next to the LES Toy Company sign. Show him your ID and proceed down the steps, through the alley way, around the building and up to the doorway at the far end. Enter. Take a (sensory) step back in time.

Ornate chandeliers. Victorian wallpaper. Dramatic paintings. Cozy red velvet booths. Check, check, check. Your cocktail in a teacup? It’s how they did it back in the day to throw off the fuzz. Nothing to see here… just a little earl gray. It’s a cute gimmick to bring back and we fell for it. The cocktails were all tasty (and pretty reasonable), so we sucked down a couple of rounds as we waited for everyone to arrive.

Once the troops had been gathered we moved on to our next stop, just a short walk away. Supper, a rather petite and exceedingly charming setting with sidewalk seating and a great backroom, boasts serving an authentic home-style meal highlighting the flavors of Northern Italy. This is the kind of Italian that we drool for… the sort your grandma actually made… the variety that they truly serve in Italy (remove all visions of soggy eggplant parmigiano from your thoughts).

With an assortment of appetizers made for sharing (I won’t disclose how many orders of the imported burrata we devoured), and a menagerie of daily specials, the crew thoroughly enjoyed the meal, and many glasses of vino. To add to the experience, our table was highlighted by their massive wine room and all their little, imported décor details. A perfect birthday dinner destination… not too big, not too small… but just right.

The post-dinner festivities didn’t actually go to plan, but that is why location is so important. After a stroll over to spot number three for some super expensive libations and a little burlesque, we determined that the idea of the crew polishing off all the required alcohol for the multiple bottle minimum was a BAD idea. We had already been going at it for hours. Instead we walked just a few short blocks to Stanton Social to finish off the evening.

We bypassed the more ornate (and crowded) main floor in lew of the highly intimate upstairs bar, where we were able to claim our own space close to the cocktails. As the sister restaurant of the swank Beauty and Essex, we knew that Stanton Social would deliver on refined custom concoctions and a glam vibe. As the night wore on, we tasted our way around their menu of mixed drink madness, and at nearly 4 am, we happily shut the place down! We are freakin’ EXPERTS at sucking back food and booze… like it’s our job people!

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Drinks- 2+2+4

The Back Room

The unexpected makes everything more fun. NYC has hundreds of amazing bars, but it’s the full experience that makes a night memorable. We’ve heard the buzz about this place for quite a while and it was finally time for us to see it for ourselves. It’s no secret that we love the speakeasy. Typically serving a collections of serious cocktails with boozes like bourbon, whiskey and tequila, we love being able to step outside of the ‘vodka cocktail’ box and try some perfectly crafted sips. But the most fun piece of frequenting a ‘speakeasy’ is finding it!

To gain entry, locate the bouncer standing within a small gate on the sidewalk next to the LES Toy Company sign. Show him your ID and proceed down the steps, through the alley way, around the building and up to the doorway at the far end. Enter. Take a (sensory) step back in time. The Back Room flaunts a 1920’s style legitimized by the fact that it is actually housed in a former prohibition speakeasy! We love a little history and a good story, so this was right up our alley (literally).

Ornate chandeliers. Victorian wallpaper. Dramatic paintings. Cozy red velvet booths. Check, check, check. Your cocktail in a teacup? It’s how they did it back in the day to throw off the fuzz. Nothing to see here… just a little earl gray. It’s a cute gimmick to bring back and we fell for it. The cocktails were all tasty (and pretty reasonable), so we sucked down a couple of rounds during our visit.

When the boys switched up their form of hydration to beer, it arrived in its’ own ‘cozy’… a brown paper bag. All of their little details fit together perfectly… except the music. A collection of modern top 40s seemed to please the crowd. We can’t help to admit that it didn’t really seem to match with the motif, but it’s great to see them doing their own thing, mixing modern and vintage.

A: Adorable. I love the decor of this place. They’ve put so much work into crafting the perfect speakeasy (apparently complete with a secret VIP BACK, back room) with all the prohibition era touches… I just wish that they would finished it off with the right music. It would be the perfect last touch.

Our Rating Scales…

• Scene- Red velvet and topless portraits in a secret back alley
• Drinks- 3: Pleasantly surprised! Boozy cocktails and beers in brown paper bags
• Tip Worthy- 3: Gratuity included
  
• Coordinates- 4: Neighborhood- Centrally located
• Restaurant Return Rate- Green light
  

Dinner- 2+2+5

Supper Restaurant

There is just something different about Supper. Although we love Italy, Italian food is not often high on our list due to the obsession that most places have with per-prepared parmigiano and buckets full of sauce. Eggplant starts to taste like chicken, and chicken like shrimp, all wrapped up in one soggy package. Supper is in NYC’s upper echelon of Italian food. Surprisingly authentic… in terms of Italy and New York. A perfect marriage and we were instantly in love.

Located in one of our favorite neighborhoods, Supper has lovely sidewalk seating, a quaint front room overlooking the kitchen, and a perfect little backroom overlooking their wine cellar, filled to the brim with a massive selection of Italian offerings. If you’ve read our sight before, you know there is nothing we like more than a little low lighting and some exposed brick over a glass of vino. Taking it one step further, the Frank Group even installed a Florentine wood ceiling for their third dining establishment.

The cuisine is all rustic and inspired by the north of Italy. It’s the kind of food your grandma ACTUALLY made. I won’t disclose how many orders of imported burrata we ate! With a menagerie of daily specials, choosing our meal was quite difficult. On our visit, seafood was a major staple of the offerings, along with several homemade pastas. Accompanied by numerous glasses of bubbly and then a hearty Chianti, our meal in the backroom of Supper was ideal! Friendly, knowledgeable (wine!) service and great for groups, we will definitely return for another meal soon.

What we ate…

Drinks

• Prosecco (All)
• Chianti Classico (All)

Appetizers

• Burrata Mozzarella (imported weekly from Puglia!) with sliced Beefsteak Tomatoes, Basil, Olive Oil and Balsamic Vinegar (All)
• Grilled Asparagus with extra virgin Olive Oil and Lemon (All)
• Pan Seared Baby Octopus, served with Potatoes, Peeled Celery ,Shaved Fennel , Parsley and Lemon (All)
• Black Salt Caesar with Crisp Romaine, Grana Padano Cheese, crunchy Cyprus Black Sea Salt, in a Mustard, toasted Garlic and Olive Oil (All)

Entrees

• Gnocchi alla Aglio D’orato- Homemade Gnocchi in a roasted Tomatoes marinara sauce and topped with roasted Garlic Cream

• Tagliatelle al Prosciutto di Parma- Fettuccine style Pasta with diced Prosciutto in Sugo and a touch of Tomato sauce

• Balsamic Codfish- Seared with 15 year old aged Balsamic and roasted Garlic with mash Potatoes and Green Beans
• Beef Amarone with Fennel Parmigiano- Beef Short Ribs brazed slowly in Amarone wine served with roasted Fennel and baked Parmigiano Reggiano Cheese

A: A great pick. I adore cozy! When dining with friends, there’s nothing better than flowing wine and comfort food. Next visit will consist of vino and antipasto in the outside seating area.

Our Rating Scales…

• Scene- Rustic Northern Italian food with sidewalk seating and an overflowing wine cellar
• Food/Drinks- 3: Pleasantly surprised
• Tip Worthy- 3: Gratuity Included
  
• Coordinates- 4: Neighborhood- Centrally located
• Restaurant Return Rate- Absolutely. Green light.
  

Drinks- 2+2+3

Stanton Social

A true social experience, everything about this restaurant and lounge on Stanton Street is designed for mingling. Three levels of sexy design, a wall of wine and an extensive menu of tasting plates and exceptional cocktails. A collaboration between restaurant and nightlife royalty, Stanton Social has all your bases covered. Great for date night dinner, the Monday Night Social DJ dancing party or a couple of drinks at the late night lounge, which is what we stopped by for.

Heading up to the second floor, we arrived around 1am and we were thirsty. In comparison to the other floors of the establishment, the upper level is quite cozy (but packed with people!) and after a couple of minutes, we were able to work our way up to the bar. The cocktail list is long and has so many great choices, all expertly crafted with top notch ingredients. Between the group of us, we were able to sample nearly ten of them. By the time last call came around, it was nearly 4 am and we had learned that this place does it right.

Although we weren’t there for dinner, we checked out their food menu and it sure looked TASTY. Designed for sharing, order multiple plates for snacking with your friends. The menu runs the gamut of delish bites with global influences, from Spanish to Italian to Asian. Some stand outs on the menu include Warm Piquillo Pepper ‘Bruschetta’ stuffed with roasted garlic-goat cheese, Potato & Goat Cheese Pierogies with caramelized onions & truffle creme fraiche and Barbeque Duck Confit & Black Bean Empanadas with smoked tomato & blood orange jam. Plus a fresh raw bar, a selection of sliders and tacos, and even Chicken and Waffles! There is truly something for everyone. The dining room is absolutely gorgeous. Sheik, modern and classic, with vaulted ceilings, white leather and artistic lighting. Bring a date, and they will surely be impressed.

What we drank..

Drinks

• The Social Tea- Ketel One Citron, gunpowder green tea, orange-honey marmalade
• Blood Orange- Jalapeño Margarita jalapeño infused Milagro Reposado, blood orange juice, fresh lime, Cointreau
• Brooklyn Lemonade- Brooklyn Gin, lemon syrup, lemon juice, muddled cucumber, ginger beer
• Strawberry Fields- Grey Goose Citron, muddled fresh strawberries,lemon syrup, fresh lemon & a Riesling floater
• 1940s Champagne Julep- Brut Cava ‘Gran Reserva’, fino sherry, lemon syrup, fresh mint & caramelized lime
• Pineapple 75 Martini- pineapple infused Ketel One, pineapple juice, lemon syrup, splash of Chambord
• Pink Grapefruit Mint Martini- Stoli Citrus, fresh squeezed pink grapefruit, lemon syrup, fresh mint
• Bea’s Gin Lemon Mojito- Bombay Sapphire, shredded mint, fresh lemon,lemon syrup, lemon-lime soda
• Basil Lime Gimlet- Belvedere Vodka, muddled basil, lemon syrup, fresh lime

A: A dinner at Stanton is in my future. If the drinks are any indication of the food, then this place will be awesome. There are so many mouthwatering items on the menu, I’ll have to bring plenty of friends so I can try them all.

Our Rating Scales…

• Scene- Sheik, modern and classic dining, lounge and dancing experience
• Drinks- 3.5: Pleasantly stellar
• Tip Worthy- 3: Gratuity included
  
• Coordinates- 4: Neighborhood- Centrally located
• Restaurant Return Rate- Green light!!
  

The anticipation was killing us. What would it be like to first step foot on African soil? Wandering through the alleys of the Kasbah? We were so excited to ride a camel and to munch on authentic tagine with a glass of Moroccan mint tea! We were thrilled. This summer’s journey consisted of a tour through coastal Portugal (from Porto, to Lisbon, to Sagres and Lagos) and then on to explorations in Spain (with stays in Seville and Madrid), with a one-day excursion to Tangier, Morocco (Portugal and Spain Travelogues coming soon!). It was going to be a splendid journey.

But, we can’t help but admit that we were apprehensive… very, very apprehensive. Tangier, Morocco is a pretty popular day trip from Spain and we actually knew two different friends that had taken the trip themselves… and they did not have fond memories. Although their voyages were quite a few years ago, it’s always hard to erase thoughts of your friends’ horror stories when planning your upcoming vacation. We fancied ourselves as pretty avid travelers, but still… Africa was new territory and we weren’t sure how American’s would be perceived in our world’s current hostile environment. We were looking to have an amazing, just-out-of-our-comfort-zone-escapade, and not be the next stars of an episode of Locked Up Abroad (we need to stop watching those Sunday afternoon marathons!). We had to do our research.

History

There is so much history in a name. Today, officially entitled the Kingdom of Morocco, the root actually comes from the Medieval Latin Morroch, which refers to Marrakesh when it was the capital in past days. The native people of the land are the Berbers who originated the name Marrakesh, which is the combination of Mour N Akoush, meaning Land of God. In Arabic, the area is referred to as al-Mamlakat al-Maghribiyyah (المملكة المغربية) or The Western Kingdom.

Located in the northern part of Africa, Morocco shares its borders with Algeria, Western Sahara, the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. Featuring extensive shore lines with beautiful beaches, an expansive mountainous region with both the Atlas and Rif ranges and of course, the Sahara Desert, the geography of the country is very diverse. While the indigenous Berbers inhabit much of the mountain region, the Sahara is very sparsely populated, with most of Morocco’s people living towards the coast. Although the capital city is Rabat, the major port of Casablanca remains as the country’s largest city and along with Marrakesh, its’ most famous. Our visit was to Tangier, the northern most city located just nine miles south of Spain, across the Strait of Gibraltar.

Home to 32 million people, native tongues range from Arabic and Berber, to French, due to France’s heavy influence and control over the area in the 20^th century, until their independence in 1956. A little French will get you a long way here. With both a king and a parliament including a Prime Minister, Morocco is referred to as a Constitutional Monarchy, with the king holding the highest power.

Today the king is Mohammed VI and you can see his photo on billboards all over the country. During our visit, we learned that he is thought of as a very progressive king, breaking traditional practices and trying to increase tourism to the area. Most notably, he allowed photos of his queen to be released (apparently something that is not normally done). Not only was her head not covered, but her hair was long and red, something quite out of the ordinary. Pick up a postcard of the royal family for your photo album… we particularly liked the shot of King Mohammed VI jet skiing along the country’s shores!

Planning the Journey

Tangier, Morocco can be reached via ferry from Tarifa, Spain, a two drive from our home base in Seville. In the past couple of years, they have added a high speed boat (63€ per person, round trip) that will travel the nine miles across the Mediterranean Sea in about 35 minutes (besides the standard departure delays); a significant advantage over the standard ferry which is not only much older, but significantly slower, making the same voyage in a couple of hours.

There are several departure times in the morning, with returns in the afternoon/early evening, and there is one important piece of information that was stressed to us; make sure you are not planning on taking the last boat of the night… unless of course, you don’t mind spending a spontaneous overnight in Morocco. Additional boats to Tangier can be caught in Algeciras, Spain, although we hear that it delivers you to a different port that is 40km from the town center (then requiring you to take a one hour bus ride to reach the town). Not exactly an ideal situation for a day trip. We decided on the Tarifa-Tangier trip, hands down.

We did extensive research on planning the perfect trip and some prominent travel books (we always refer to The Rick… Rick Steve’s) and the all knowing TripAdvisor.com, all pointed in the same direction. A private tour guide is a must! Both groups of our friends visited Tangier with a group tour, and did not have a good experience. You just don’t get the same type of personalized attention, which was quite apparent when we saw obvious group tours wandering the Kasbah ‘alone’ with a look of fear in their eyes.

We all agreed that a private tour was the way to go and unanimously chose Aziz Begdouri as our guide. His reviews were stellar and he even helped Rick Steve’s write the Tangier section for his travel book. At an extremely reasonable 35€ per person, we were floored by how inexpensive it was for a full day Gran Tour including 8 hours of experiences from the old town to the new. In addition, Aziz reserved our passage on the ferry for us, and we didn’t pay a single penny up front. Was this truly the honor system or a dumb-tourist-scam (it’s the NYC cynic in us)? Believe us when we say that we were astounded to find out that there was no scam… and Aziz is worth three times that amount, so get ready to tip him (not that he’s asking for it!).

The Voyage!

Leaving before the crack of dawn, the front desk attendant at our Seville, Spain hotel was quite surprised to see us when we handed over our room keys that morning. We informed him of the day’s destination and told him to call out the search parties if we didn’t return that evening (a standard practice we always implement since our Switzerland-Italy-France fiasco… but that’s a story for another time). The streets of Seville were desolate as we made our way to the car in the darkness. Once in the car, the drive took about two hours and we arrived at the ferry full of excitement, just after sunrise.

Equipped with our ‘bug-out-packs’ full of supplies (hand sanitizer, toilet paper, copies of passports, granola bars and water, among other things) we quickly picked up our tickets from the terminal window and grabbed a snack at the café while waiting for our boat’s arrival. After passing through Spanish customs, we were instructed to obtain our Moroccan stamp at the customs booth once we boarded the ferry. This proved to be a complete and utter debacle!

Throw away all of your notions of what it means to stand on a line because you will be the only idiot still trying to hold on to them. It is mass chaos. Besides the obvious line cutters that merge onto the front of the line from the side, Moroccan mothers have their system down pact! They have all of their children sit near the booth and once they squeeze their way in, they call over their entire family for stamps. Do not do what we did (wait patiently on the line as it crept along)… cut, cut, cut! Walk right to the front and start pushing yourself in. No one will say a word.

Once the madness was over, we took a walk around the surprisingly nice boat and then headed up to the outdoor deck for a view of Africa on the horizon. It was one of the most exciting feelings we’ve ever felt! As it came in to view, we snapped away trying to forever capture that moment for the photo book. As we exited the boat, it all became real and our look of apprehension must have been apparent. ‘Smile! You are in Africa!’ one of the locals said to us. We had to comply… we were!

And then it began. The inundation of local guides and locals in general, descending on the tourists. Like sharks surrounding a school of fish. Offers for rides, tours and wares all at once… sort of like arriving at the international terminal in JFK Airport… but worse. Since JFK is our home airport, we’ve gathered a lot of experience in shaking them off. We had one goal… we were looking for Aziz. We had no idea what he looked like and we weren’t exactly sure where we were meeting him, so we looked around for a sign with our name on it or something (not that anyone had a sign).

Then the first person specifically addressed us, ‘Do you want a tour?’. We replied that we already had one arranged, to which he said, ‘Oh, you are waiting for Aziz! Don’t worry… he is coming.’ We were bewildered. How did he know that we were waiting for Aziz? Was there more than one tour guide named Aziz? And it continued. Random stranger after stranger assured us that Aziz was on his way and he was just running late. We were a bit freaked out. Beside us, a guide gathering a large group of tourists hung up his phone and instructed us to follow him; he will bring us to Aziz. By this time we were really on guard. With only one way out, along the dock to the terminal building, we decided there was no harm in following for now.

As we entered the terminal in a sea of hundreds of people, our guide walked right up to us, introduced himself and stated each of our names as he shook our hands. To this day we have no idea how everyone knew who we were, but it’s clear that there is an insane interconnection between guides, staff and locals. They are paying attention. Aziz was our fixer, or as we more fondly refer to him… our magical wizard. This guy makes things happen! At first glance, it was clear that he was different. Rather than traditional Moroccan garb, or shorts and a t-shirt, he was decked out in a navy blue Lacoste shirt, pressed khaki pants, polished shoes, wraparound sunglasses and a blinging watch… as if he was on his way to grab some lunch at a yacht club. He does NOT blend. He was the Moroccan MAN!

Entering the terminal there are a series of security checks… each with lines (or more accurately, mobs) hundreds deep, and hours long. But these are formalities. Clearing our path, he brought us all to the front of the line, pushed our bags through the x ray machine and pushed us through the metal detector; all while giving a wave and hello to nearly every person that works there. He knew them all. And we were done- 3 minutes for a 2 hour line. We could get used to this.

An Evolving Port City

As we followed him out of the building and across the parking lot, the hellos continued… in six different languages! Waves to men manning security booths, selling trinkets, driving cabs… Bonjour! Hola! Hello! It was crazy. We were thoroughly impressed. It looks like we picked the right man for the job. Piling into his tiny car (we hear he has a van too), we were a bit squished, but we were off! We started by driving the streets of the city right near the port. Parts were modern (and parts were not), with new high rises, particularly near the water, where the king is working on revitalizing the waterfront with a high end harbor featuring shopping, restaurants, residences and dock space for yachts. It’s a good plan considering Tangier’s proximity to Europe and its prime location on the Mediterranean Sea.

Driving further into the city, we peered into the everyday life of the locals… hanging out on street corners, riding around on hybrid motorcycle/carts, pulling donkeys carrying supplies. Aziz covered all of our questions before we even asked them. Reviewing Moroccan history, government, languages, customs and religion, we got all the important topics in there. Stopping on one block, he pointed out a Tanger Grand Mosque with its’ massive tower, but then also showed us the Catholic Church and synagogue located right down the block, demonstrating the city’s great religious diversity.

As the locals strolled by, he pointed out the differences in traditional dress. Men varied from a full westerner get up, a la Aziz (but not nearly as flashy), to the customary long robe, slipper shoes and round hat/skull cap, which seemed to be more popular. The women varied greatly from very liberal (‘regular’ clothing, no head wrap), to very conservative (all black robe with entire face and head covered), with the vast majority residing somewhere in the middle (colorful head wrap, long sleeve shirt and long pants). Also, the native Berber people have retained their traditional dress, particularly their colorful, cone shaped hat with hanging pom poms. It was quite a mix.

Dress was one thing that we were concerned about for our visit; we weren’t looking to stand out anymore than we already did and we definitely weren’t looking to attract negative attention on our first visit. Although we chose to stay on the more conservative side (covered shoulders, nothing flashy), we were absolutely shocked by the cleavage and booty shorts that some tourists were flaunting off the ferry. Although you can technically wear whatever you want in Morocco, the louder and more revealing your dress, the more attention, following and even hissing, you will experience… just an FYI.

Entering the Outskirts

Leaving the city, we climbed the hills on the outskirts, passing an incredible number of construction sites (lots of new apartment complexes going up); a tell tale sign of the immense revitalization efforts. As we got higher and higher, the properties became more and more astounding; complex after walled complex, equipped with a gate house for visitors. The most notable were the Moroccan king’s (with a seaside summer palace) and the royals from Saudi Arabia and Kuwait, each with their own massive, perfectly manicured, compound. We were informed that this neighborhood was actually modeled after the Hollywood Hills in California, and we could see the resemblance.

But the most remarkable part of the hilly drive was the view. It took us by surprise. Actually, that is a complete and utter understatement. It slapped us across the face. It was phenomenal! Tangier has one of the most incredible coastlines we’ve ever seen. We cannot stress this enough. Imagine about ten extremely obnoxious exclamation marks after that statement! Extending as far as the eye can see, the wide, white sandy beaches are pristine and the water is a perfect aqua with rolling waves. And the most astounding part of it all… they are completely empty. There is no one there. Moroccans obviously do NOT have a beach culture.

Pulling into one of the beautiful compounds, we entered into a luxury hotel with an astounding view of the sea below. Of course, Aziz knew the staff and we walked right in, snapped lots of pictures and toured some of the rooms.

Most notably, we loved the ornate meeting/dining room complete with traditional tapestries, paintings and lanterns. With some outdoor dining on their deck overlooking the water, we so hoped that this is where we would be eating lunch, but we quickly used the ‘facilities’ and headed out to our next destination; but not without making a mental note of this property for the future.

Reaching another beautiful lookout point, we made a quick stop at Cape Spartel, the location where the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean meet, capturing yet another lovely photo for the memory banks. Our next stop was high on the tourist’s checklist.

Located away from the main port and medina, the Cave of Hercules can only really be reached by car (via a guide). For a mere euro (keep change handy on your trip), descend into the dark and slippery cave and explore the paths carved out by the Berber people as they excavated large, round stones. At the end of the cavern, an African shaped outlet opening to the sea lets the water flow into the cave. Although they’ve allowed local merchants to set up souvenir stands within the caves (upping the tourist factor), the cave is a pretty cool attraction; just watch out for falling bat guano. K took a direct hit! Yuck!

It’s a Freaking Camel.

Squeezing back into the car, we wound our way back through the hills to our next adventure… the camel ride! We were all amazingly excited to ride a camel, but A’s enthusiasm quickly turned to fear when she witnessed the camel’s jerking process for standing up and sitting down (so you could step on and off).

With only a small disintegrating knot at the base of the blanket-turned-saddle, there was practically nothing to hold on to should you start to fall off or need to brace yourself; and camels are very tall, so be prepared for a long, painful plunge to the ground. A quickly became petrified.

Camel introductions began.  A’s camel was astoundingly named Ali Baba! Of course Ali Baba was the naughty camel of the pack and wore a muzzle to help to keep him in line. This only increased fears exponentially. Thankfully, despite all of A’s reservations, the ride turned out to be brilliant! Ali Baba was a fast friend and quite graceful when it came to standing and sitting… it’s just the spitting and biting part that he needed to get under control!

2 Plus 2 quickly created a camel caravan with our furry counterparts, with Ali Baba bring up the rear. We absolutely loved our 2€, seaside parade through the sand, and did not want it to end. We envision a long journey through the Sahara in our future…

Rock the Kasbah

Next up, we parked down by the port and began our explorations through the Kasbah. Stopping at the Grand Socco before we entered the maze, we admired the view below; a lovely town square surrounded by a slew of colorful, yet dingy crisscrossing streets. We were so excited to see what was inside, but were thankful that we had Aziz to show us the way.

As we entered the medina, Aziz walked ahead and we followed behind looking at all of the festive stands along the way; some sold slipper-like-shoes, some with clothing, lots with spices and food, and an exorbitant amount of tea glasses, lanterns, rugs and handpainted pottery (exactly what we were looking for). There was so much to take in.

The further we walked, the more A+K strayed scoping out the ideal souvenirs to pick up before we left. Initially we thought it was kind of strange that the once talkative Aziz was now walking ahead and speaking mostly to the locals, but we quickly learned that he was literally clearing our way. The moment that we were more than 10 steps behind him, we were immediately swarmed by the vendors. They surrounded us and no amount of No’s could get them to leave us alone. And with one step towards them, Aziz instantly made them scatter. He didn’t even have to say anything.

At one point, one of the locals literally exclaimed ‘Aziz!’ while punching his fist in the air, frustrated that our guide had foiled his plan to pester us. It was as if he had set up one of those electric fences around us. He knew everyone and it was obvious that he had established relationships with the locals to leave his customers alone. It made the experience sooo much better (like normal shopping)! Making our way through the streets we passed plenty of people that we had seen on the ferry ride over… it’s quite easy to pick them out… there is no hope of a westerner blending in the Kasbah. It’s like you have a flashing, red sign over your head that says “Tourist!”. Needless to say, they looked lost and unhappy to say the least. It can be an overwhelming place to explore without knowing where you are going.

Lucky for us, we had a phenomenal time… one that we will always vividly remember. The old city consists primarily of white stucco-looking buildings, all piled on top of one another. Walking the streets you can really see Disney’s Aladdin come to life right before your eyes. There is a scene that I remember from when I was a kid when Aladdin is trying to escape the guards… he is jumping from roof top to roof top, grabbing laundry along the way, dipping in and out of peoples’ homes and jumping down terraced balconies, before he lands on top of a fruit stand below. That… is an accurate representation of what the medina looks like.

Strolling down main, slightly wider drags filled with little local shops; descending into the almost underground food market exploding with fresh produce, baskets of fresh flowers, barrels full of colorful spices and tables piled high with fresh juicy olives (of which Aziz bought us a bag to try and we almost died… they were so good!); climbing and climbing up flights of winding stairs through the narrow alley ways where people have their homes. We walked for hours. Breaking from the monotony of the white walls, many painted alleys in brights like orange and blue, and very commonly, locals decorated their front doors with hanging flowers, mosaics, carvings and lots of color. There were bursts of beauty everywhere, and Aziz brought us right to them.

While many homes have running water and kitchens, others do not. As we walked, Aziz pointed out the communal water fountain and the community oven where you would come to bake the days’ bread. Another interesting neighborhood meeting spot was a cave like room with an X-Box set up… the favorite hangout of local little boys. Rounding a corner, we came upon a collection of men smoking hash (which is not cool for tourists by the way) as they sat on woven stools in front of a residence… with a random chicken walking around. It was amazing to have taken a step into a daily life that was so different than ours. We were entranced.

Tagine Time!

Making our way into a large open courtyard, we began to talk lunch. We can’t lie. We were initially hesitant about eating in Morocco for fear of spending the remaining days of our vacation in the bathroom. But once we experienced how in-the-know Aziz was, we knew he wouldn’t steer us wrong. He asked how much money we wanted to spend… a reasonable meal for about 10€ was across the street and an expensive, incredible meal for about 25€ was around the corner… and they took American Express. The choice was clear. We went with the latter.

Down a long wide alley big enough to fit cars, we arrived in front of grand, broad, castle-like door with traditional lanterns lighting the way. The sign read ‘Hotel Nord-Pinus-Tanger’. A quick knock and a beautiful woman dressed in a short black dress with long flowing hair greeted us with a ‘Bonjour’ and a smile. Within the walls, we entered into a crisp, picturesque courtyard opened to the sky with draped greenery hanging from balconies above. We couldn’t stop taking pictures.

Walking us up to the second floor, we entered into a traditional, Moroccan styled dining room complete with stained glass keyhole windows, intricately painted tables and bowls displayed on the walls, colorful pillows in blues and burgundy and a ceiling full of decorative lanterns. It was a vision from our Moroccan dreams. The true icing on the cake lied through the keyhole windows and out onto the balcony where the Mediterranean stretched as far as the eye could see.

Up another flight of stairs and the décor changed dramatically, this floor feeling like a modern East Hampton beach house complete with wooden couches and abstract art. Stepping onto the outdoor sunbathing deck, we got the true scope of the view which now included looking down on to the roofs of homes below, complete with livestock, hanging laundry and playing children. The scenery reached new heights as we saw the miles of white sand beaches lining the coasts and the cerulean sea washing up on the shores. Up yet another flight of stairs and we reached a smaller roof deck that now provided a 360 degree look at the entire city. Aziz knows how to pick them. This place was truly incredible.

After trying to take in as much of the view as possible, we decided on the Moroccan styled dining room as the setting for our meal (outside dining is also offered on the roof deck), with a perfect table right in front of those windows. Lunch was three courses with a number of choices for each, and surprisingly, the choices were all pretty familiar. For apps, we went with both the collection of Moroccan salads (consisting of eggplant, zucchini and cucumber with tomatoes) and essentially a Moroccan style ‘spring roll’.

All of our entrees consisted of chicken tagine… not a single one of us could say no to it. And for dessert, some had a delicate little cake and some had a variety of fruits, all of which were bursting with flavor. The fare was remarkable! Adding to the mix, we sipped both a Moroccan beer and a local rosé to complete the scene. We didn’t want to leave. For nearly two hours we picked Aziz’ brain on stories of his life as a Tangier native, drank copious amounts of wine and laughed. How did we ever get to be so lucky.

Did That Just Happen?

As we chatted, we inquired about picking up some souvenirs before heading back to the ferry. Departing Hotel Nord-Pinus-Tanger, Aziz brought us to shop to pick up the items we wanted. A selection of traditional tea glasses and a beautiful handpainted bowl that matched our décor back home. Haggling is expected and we secured a package deal for the items… which I’m sure we could have obtained for a lot cheaper if we really committed to securing a bargain. However, we quickly realized that it was a little after 4:30 pm and our ferry left in about a half hour… and we had no idea of where the dock even was from where we were. Thank goodness Aziz had it all under control.

We swiftly exited the Kasbah, Aziz walked us across six lanes of quickly moving traffic (We crossed a highway for god sakes! Thank goodness they all stopped for him.) and we entered the ferry terminal. We were so wrapped up in the day’s activities that we didn’t even think about what the process would be like for returning to another freaking continent! Well, let us help you with this… it’s the mayhem version of taking an international flight. Arrive hours early, go through customs, go through security and wait on numerous, extremely long, disorganized lines (mobs); If you have luggage with you, multiple the experience by two. We had 15 minutes.

After collecting our passports, Aziz secured our stamps and we went ‘around the back’, entering the dock from a ‘different way’… bypassing everything. As we walked towards the ferry, more than a football field away, the horn sounded and the ramp from the boat started to move. ‘Run!’ and we did… flip flops, awkward souvenirs and all. Arms flailing with our passports in our hands, we had an audience of hundreds as we finally made it to the boat and literally leaped onto the ferry as it was pulling away. We felt terrible as there was a line of people right on the dock who were arguing with the boat attendants to let them on; and we literally just ran passed all of them, hopping on with only a second to spare; the benefits of having Aziz. Handing him his payment over the gap between the departing boat and Africa, we couldn’t believe what had just happened.

Never in our lives did we expect the days’ events. From the breathtaking views of the coast line, to the remarkable, authentic meal, to our explorations throughout the Kasbah and our absolute adventures with the locals, we were forever changed by this once-in-a-lifetime journey. While we never get tired of touring Europe, the traditional ‘western’ culture remains basically the same whether you are in Italy, England, Germany, etc, or the USA; it’s lovely, we adore it, but it’s familiar. Tangier brought us straight out of comfort zone; a true adventure, and it felt so good. We’ve begun a new chapter in our book! Watch out world… here we come.

The Details

Aziz Begdouri Tours-  aziztour@hotmail.com

• 5 hour Walking Tour: The Old City with visits to the Kasbah, Medina, snakes charmers, Berber markets, Gran Socco, Petit Socco, the Old American Legation, Mendoubia Gardens, the markets and more. 15€ pp cash

• 8 hour Gran Tour: A combination of sightseeing in an air-conditioned minibus around the outskirt of Tangier and the walking tour in the Old City. Explore the richest area of Tangier with villas and palaces of royalty and celebrities. Visit Cape Spartel, the most northern point of Africa (the exact point where the Mediterranean and the Atlantic Ocean meet) and the Caves of Hercules. Then stop to take a ride on a camel! Finish off with the Walking Tour as described above. 35€ pp cash

Tarifa to Tangier Ferry: 35 minutes from shore to shore. Runs every 2 hours from 9:00 am until 11:00 pm. Return times are 9:00 am, 11:00 am, 1:00 pm, 3:00 pm, 5:00 pm, 7:00 pm, 9:00 pm local time. Note that Morocco is 2 hours behind Spain. 63€ pp round trip

Hotel Nord-Pinus-Tanger- An incredible multilevel guesthouse, dining experience and sanctuary on the shores of Tangier’s Mediterranean waterfront. Even if you don’t stay hear, you must make a visit to their restaurant for classic tagines and breathtaking views. 11, Riad Sultan, Kasbah, +212 (0) 661 22 81 40, www.nord-pinus-tanger.com

80 Spring Street, NYC

Located in a prime location just above Houston, Balthazar’s front doors are constantly overflowing the patrons trying to secure a seat. Don’t even think about walking in without a reservation, unless of course you don’t mind waiting for a couple of hours. Inside and out, Balthazar is the quintessential French bistro. Complete with distressed mirrors, dark wood finishes and globe lights, the decor will transport you to a Parisian brassiere. While waiting for your table, squeeze yourself into the bar for a glass of vin or a beautifully mixed alcoholic creation. Although you can technically eat at the bar, this is one place that we wouldn’t recommend it. It’s just so busy and the experience just won’t compare to that which you’d have at a seat.

As one of restauranteur Keith McNally’s mainstay spots, it opened it’s doors in 1997, and has been a success ever since. Serving breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner, any meal will be sure to please. Highly decorated Chef Eric Ripert has commented that this is one of his favorite restaurants in all of NYC and frequents it regularly. Famous for its bakery, we loved visiting for brunch, where Le Panier, a basket of their fabulous baked goods is a must. Honestly, it’s so big that you could share that and some coffee and be full. But that doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t order more food!

A full raw bar and all the French classics (think Salade Nicoise, Chicken Paillard and Steak Frites) are staples on the menu and at brunch, the selection of egg dishes is pretty extensive, along with Apple Cinnamon Pancakes (!), Crepes (!!) and Brioche French Toast (!!!). Accompany your meal with one of their signature ‘Hangover Drinks’ (try the Champagne-Pick-Me-Up or the Oyster Mary), your best friends and your appetite, because you won’t be leaving anytime soon.

For dinner, the menu is truly mouthwatering. The Warm Goat Cheese and Caramelized Onion Tart is a favorite. Entrees range from Sauteed Skate and Duck Shepard’s Pie to Braised Pork Cheeks and the Grilled Lamb T-bone. Finish it off with a balanced cheese plate and you will be a happy camper. After you fall in love with Balthazar, check out some of its sister restaurants. Our favorites including Pastis, Lucky Strike and Morandi’s.

What we ate…

Drinks

• Champagne-Pick-Me-Up [Champagne, V.S. Cognac, Orange Juice and Grenadine] (A)
• Oyster Mary [Vodka, Clamato Juice, Tabasco and Lemon Juice] (L)

Food

• Le Panier [a basket of freshly baked breads and pastries from their bakery] (A+L)
• Egg Florentine with Spinach and Artichoke (A)
• Onion Soup Gratinee (L)
• Salade Nicose (L)
• Assiette de Fromages (A+L)

A: I love the French bistro. Plain and simple, I can’t get enough. Balthazar does it exceptionally well. Love it. A New York staple.

Our Rating Scales…

• Scene- Classic, high end, New York-French bistro
• Food/Drinks- 4: Pleasantly stellar!
• Tip Worthy- 4: Double the tax and thensome
  
• Coordinates- 4: Neighborhood- Centrally located
• Restaurant Return Rate- Green light
  

144 Second Avenue, NYC

An East Village staple, Veselka has been a favorite of ours for more than a decade. Established in 1954, this corner joint is jumping for breakfast, lunch and dinner. We always tend to think of it as ‘diner’ like, but with an array of Ukrainian classics added into the mix. Typically we visit for an American breakfast with a kielbasa twist, or for a late night dinner complete with a heaping helping of pierogies. Yum. Describing their menu as ‘Ukrainian Soul Food’, expect at least a short wait at any time of the day for their homemade dishes.

Complement your typical breakfast egg, french toast, pancake and pastry (all from scratch!) choices with incredible homemade corned beef hash, blintzes, farina and potato pancakes. Accompany your salad with some Ukrainian staple soups like Cabbage and Borscht (along with all your typical favorites like Chili, Split Pea and Matzoh Ball). And for dinner, you will find it hard to not go overboard. Although you won’t be disappointed by one of their juicy burgers, mix it up with a sandwich like the Reuben (thinly sliced Krakovska, Swiss Cheese, Sauerkraut and Homemade Russian Dressing on 7 Grain Bread) or the Ukrainian Meatball (with Mushroom Gravy and Sauerkraut on Challah Baguette). The specialty entrees are where the ethnic flair really shines through with offerings like Beef Stroganoff, Veal Goulash, Stuffed Cabbage and Kielbasa.

No matter the meal, Veselka is always a casual dining experience with seating inside and out on the sidewalk. They’ve become so popular now that they even have their own cookbook and a brand new location in the Bowery featuring a contemporary spin on Ukrainian classics. There’s a reason why this place has been around for nearly 60 years.

What we ate… (over numerous visits)

Food

• Eggs, Toast and Homemade Corned Beef Hash
• Eggs, Pancakes and Kielbasa
• Pier0gies with Sauteed Onions, Apple Sauce and Sour Cream
• Various Soups
• Char-broiled Deluxe Burger
• Egg Noodles
• Potato Pancakes
• Veal Goulash
• Beef Stroganoff

A: Sometimes in the morning, I wake up and Veselka is the first thing I think of. I should branch out more than I do, but I can’t help but routinely fill my belly with their pierogies and potato pancakes. Redic!

Our Rating Scales…

• Scene- Casual 24 hour diner with a Ukrainian flare
• Food/Drinks- 3.5: Pleasantly Stellar
• Tip Worthy- 3: Gratuity included
  
• Coordinates- 4: Neighborhood- Centrally located
• Restaurant Return Rate- Absolutely Green!
  

86 East 7th Street, NYC

Exceptionally small (in size) and incredibly good, we can’t stop thinking about Abraco! L stumbled upon this adorable, tiny coffee bar by accident, and brought A back for a morning visit on a beautiful sunshiny day. Nearly 75% of the one room establishment consists of their kitchen which astoundingly holds three people. Step into the front door and occupy the other 25% of the room… along with about 5 or 6 other shoulder-to-shoulder patrons. Like an IKEA commercial, they’ve made efficient use of their space, and we were lucky enough to secure a spot along the window complete with a narrow ledge to place our goodies in between bites/sips. Being swooshed is part of the appeal!

With a true neighborhoody vibe, we stood adjacent to three (seemingly) ‘regulars’ so were in the middle of an interesting, artsy and comical banter with a couple of the employees… a la a Woody Allen movie. During their exchange, we placed our order and the staff proceeded to hand brew our coffees in adorable glass cups with little filters. It was a process, and the final product was truly remarkable. Hands down one of the best cups of coffee we’ve ever had.

To accompany our caffeine, we ordered up a couple of snacks… a Cured Olive Cookie and a flaky Croissant, and they were delish! All of their baked goods are freshly made in house, as well as their morning fritatta. At lunch time, they offer an assortment of freshly made seasonal snack specials. When the weather is fine, pick up your sandwich and lean up against one of the small outdoor table/ledges and chat with the other patrons. An adorable, and delicious little spot!

What we ate…

Drinks

• Cappuccino (A)
• Espresso (L)

Food

• Croissant (A+L)
• Cured Olive Cookie (A+L)

A: Wooza! The best cup of coffee ever. I can’t wait to return for that crispy Olive Oil Cookie. 

Our Rating Scales…

• Scene- Quaint and cozy coffee and pastry bar
• Food/Drinks- 4: Stellar! Wouldn’t change a thing!
• Tip Worthy- 3: Gratuity Included
  
• Coordinates- 4: Neighborhood- Centrally located
• Restaurant Return Rate- Green light!
  

A true social experience, everything about this restaurant and lounge on Stanton Street is designed for mingling. Three levels of sexy design, a wall of wine and an extensive menu of tasting plates and exceptional cocktails. A collaboration between restaurant and nightlife royalty, Stanton Social has all your bases covered. Great for date night dinner, the Monday Night Social DJ dancing party or a couple of drinks at the late night lounge, which is what we stopped by for.

Heading up to the second floor, we arrived around 1am and we were thirsty. In comparison to the other floors of the establishment, the upper level is quite cozy (but packed with people!) and after a couple of minutes, we were able to work our way up to the bar. The cocktail list is long and has so many great choices, all expertly crafted with top notch ingredients. Between the group of us, we were able to sample nearly ten of them. By the time last call came around, it was nearly 4 am and we had learned that this place does it right.

Although we weren’t there for dinner, we checked out their food menu and it sure looked TASTY. Designed for sharing, order multiple plates for snacking with your friends. The menu runs the gamut of delish bites with global influences, from Spanish to Italian to Asian. Some stand outs on the menu include Warm Piquillo Pepper ‘Bruschetta’ stuffed with roasted garlic-goat cheese, Potato & Goat Cheese Pierogies with caramelized onions & truffle creme fraiche and Barbeque Duck Confit & Black Bean Empanadas with smoked tomato & blood orange jam. Plus a fresh raw bar, a selection of sliders and tacos, and even Chicken and Waffles! There is truly something for everyone. The dining room is absolutely gorgeous. Sheik, modern and classic, with vaulted ceilings, white leather and artistic lighting. Bring a date, and they will surely be impressed.

What we drank..

Drinks

• The Social Tea- Ketel One Citron, gunpowder green tea, orange-honey marmalade
• Blood Orange- Jalapeño Margarita jalapeño infused Milagro Reposado, blood orange juice, fresh lime, Cointreau
• Brooklyn Lemonade- Brooklyn Gin, lemon syrup, lemon juice, muddled cucumber, ginger beer
• Strawberry Fields- Grey Goose Citron, muddled fresh strawberries,lemon syrup, fresh lemon & a Riesling floater
• 1940s Champagne Julep- Brut Cava ‘Gran Reserva’, fino sherry, lemon syrup, fresh mint & caramelized lime
• Pineapple 75 Martini- pineapple infused Ketel One, pineapple juice, lemon syrup, splash of Chambord
• Pink Grapefruit Mint Martini- Stoli Citrus, fresh squeezed pink grapefruit, lemon syrup, fresh mint
• Bea’s Gin Lemon Mojito- Bombay Sapphire, shredded mint, fresh lemon,lemon syrup, lemon-lime soda
• Basil Lime Gimlet- Belvedere Vodka, muddled basil, lemon syrup, fresh lime

A: A dinner at Stanton is in my future. If the drinks are any indication of the food, then this place will be awesome. There are so many mouthwatering items on the menu, I’ll have to bring plenty of friends so I can try them all.

Our Rating Scales…

• Scene- Sheik, modern and classic dining, lounge and dancing experience
• Drinks- 3.5: Pleasantly stellar
• Tip Worthy- 3: Gratuity included
  
• Coordinates- 4: Neighborhood- Centrally located
• Restaurant Return Rate- Green light!!
  

There is just something different about Supper. Although we love Italy, Italian food is not often high on our list due to the obsession that most places have with per-prepared parmigiano and buckets full of sauce. Eggplant starts to taste like chicken, and chicken like shrimp, all wrapped up in one soggy package. Supper is in NYC’s upper echelon of Italian food. Surprisingly authentic… in terms of Italy and New York. A perfect marriage and we were instantly in love.

Located in one of our favorite neighborhoods, Supper has lovely sidewalk seating, a quaint front room overlooking the kitchen, and a perfect little backroom overlooking their wine cellar, filled to the brim with a massive selection of Italian offerings. If you’ve read our sight before, you know there is nothing we like more than a little low lighting and some exposed brick over a glass of vino. Taking it one step further, the Frank Group even installed a Florentine wood ceiling for their third dining establishment.

The cuisine is all rustic and inspired by the north of Italy. It’s the kind of food your grandma ACTUALLY made. I won’t disclose how many orders of imported burrata we ate! With a menagerie of daily specials, choosing our meal was quite difficult. On our visit, seafood was a major staple of the offerings, along with several homemade pastas. Accompanied by numerous glasses of bubbly and then a hearty Chianti, our meal in the backroom of Supper was ideal! Friendly, knowledgeable (wine!) service and great for groups, we will definitely return for another meal soon.

What we ate…

Drinks

• Prosecco (All)
• Chianti Classico (All)

Appetizers

• Burrata Mozzarella (imported weekly from Puglia!) with sliced Beefsteak Tomatoes, Basil, Olive Oil and Balsamic Vinegar (All)
• Grilled Asparagus with extra virgin Olive Oil and Lemon (All)
• Pan Seared Baby Octopus, served with Potatoes, Peeled Celery ,Shaved Fennel , Parsley and Lemon (All)
• Black Salt Caesar with Crisp Romaine, Grana Padano Cheese, crunchy Cyprus Black Sea Salt, in a Mustard, toasted Garlic and Olive Oil (All)

Entrees

• Gnocchi alla Aglio D’orato- Homemade Gnocchi in a roasted Tomatoes marinara sauce and topped with roasted Garlic Cream

• Tagliatelle al Prosciutto di Parma- Fettuccine style Pasta with diced Prosciutto in Sugo and a touch of Tomato sauce

• Balsamic Codfish- Seared with 15 year old aged Balsamic and roasted Garlic with mash Potatoes and Green Beans
• Beef Amarone with Fennel Parmigiano- Beef Short Ribs brazed slowly in Amarone wine served with roasted Fennel and baked Parmigiano Reggiano Cheese

A: A great pick. I adore cozy! When dining with friends, there’s nothing better than flowing wine and comfort food. Next visit will consist of vino and antipasto in the outside seating area.

Our Rating Scales…

• Scene- Rustic Northern Italian food with sidewalk seating and an overflowing wine cellar
• Food/Drinks- 3: Pleasantly surprised
• Tip Worthy- 3: Gratuity Included
  
• Coordinates- 4: Neighborhood- Centrally located
• Restaurant Return Rate- Absolutely. Green light.
  

The unexpected makes everything more fun. NYC has hundreds of amazing bars, but it’s the full experience that makes a night memorable. We’ve heard the buzz about this place for quite a while and it was finally time for us to see it for ourselves. It’s no secret that we love the speakeasy. Typically serving a collections of serious cocktails with boozes like bourbon, whiskey and tequila, we love being able to step outside of the ‘vodka cocktail’ box and try some perfectly crafted sips. But the most fun piece of frequenting a ‘speakeasy’ is finding it!

To gain entry, locate the bouncer standing within a small gate on the sidewalk next to the LES Toy Company sign. Show him your ID and proceed down the steps, through the alley way, around the building and up to the doorway at the far end. Enter. Take a (sensory) step back in time. The Back Room flaunts a 1920’s style legitimized by the fact that it is actually housed in a former prohibition speakeasy! We love a little history and a good story, so this was right up our alley (literally).

Ornate chandeliers. Victorian wallpaper. Dramatic paintings. Cozy red velvet booths. Check, check, check. Your cocktail in a teacup? It’s how they did it back in the day to throw off the fuzz. Nothing to see here… just a little earl gray. It’s a cute gimmick to bring back and we fell for it. The cocktails were all tasty (and pretty reasonable), so we sucked down a couple of rounds during our visit.

When the boys switched up their form of hydration to beer, it arrived in its’ own ‘cozy’… a brown paper bag. All of their little details fit together perfectly… except the music. A collection of modern top 40s seemed to please the crowd. We can’t help to admit that it didn’t really seem to match with the motif, but it’s great to see them doing their own thing, mixing modern and vintage.

A: Adorable. I love the decor of this place. They’ve put so much work into crafting the perfect speakeasy (apparently complete with a secret VIP BACK, back room) with all the prohibition era touches… I just wish that they would finished it off with the right music. It would be the perfect last touch.

Our Rating Scales…

• Scene- Red velvet and topless portraits in a secret back alley
• Drinks- 3: Pleasantly surprised! Boozy cocktails and beers in brown paper bags
• Tip Worthy- 3: Gratuity included
  
• Coordinates- 4: Neighborhood- Centrally located
• Restaurant Return Rate- Green light
  

House made pickles, preserves and biscuits? (No, your pregnant wife isn’t sending you out for a late night food run again.) Meat from sustainable sources and American beers? Jacob’s Pickles would seem fit more for Williamsburg than the Upper West Side. Looks like the UWS jumped up one level on the hipster scale. Bring on the plaid shirts and vintage bicycles.

Stroll by on a summer night and see the entire front of the restaurant open to the street. The rustic, yet clean charm of the inside is highlighted by the neat racks of liquor bottles behind the bar and glass door refrigerators filled with pickle jars. Have a seat at one of the vintage looking tables up front and enjoy a seat in the middle of the action.

Sometimes old habits are hard to break and every time we go there we eat the same thing. Fried pickles and the biscuits with house strawberry & orange preserves, local honey and organic butter. Need we say more? Well… we will. The remainder of the menu includes the what’s what of comfort food including matzo ball soup, house cured smoked salmon, slow roasted turkey legs, shrimp and grits, as well as an array of fried chicken and biscuit sandwiches.

Slosh it all down with an ice cold American beer or Spicy Brine Margarita (House infused jalapeño espolon tequila, spicy pickle brine) and you are in business. The cocktail list is truly inventive and features a collection of original creations with all American ingredients. Try the Rum & Root Beer (Sailor Jerry Spiced Rum, Saranac NY Root Beer) and the Kentucky Porch Sipper (Bourbon, Muddled Lemon Lime Orange, House Apple Bitters)! Oh and did we mention they also have Mexican Fanta. It’s made with orange juice and real sugar! Ok, we may have made a bigger deal about that than is necessary.

What we ate…

Drinks

• Gold Rush [Whiskey, lemon, honey] (A)
• Old Smoky Original & Apple Pie Moonshine (2+2)
• Lavender Gin Fizz with Farmer’s Organic Gin, House Lavender Syrup and House Lavendar Bitters (2+2)
• Honey Julep with Four Roses Bourbon, Muddled Mint and Honey Syrup (2+2)

Food

• Biscuits and Fixins with House Strawberry and Orange Preserves, Local Honey and Organic Butter (2+2)
• Fried Pickles with Spicy Red Mayo (2+2)
• Pickled Eggs with Fresh Organic Eggs, Spicy Jalapeno Brine (L+M)

A: PB&B is a new favorite. I adore the ambiance combination of NYC hip and cozy, Southern porch! Whiskey and bourbon make for a delicious mixed drink and a buttery biscuit is the perfect late night munchie. I see a long relationship in our future… 

K: Since this was the end of the evening spot, my recollection is rather vague. I liked the coziness and definitely want to return for a full experience again soon.

L: Incredible beers from across America. Grab a biscuit, some pickles and enjoy.

M: OK let me start by saying, I HATE PICKLES. But I have to admit I really liked the fried pickles here. Everything was great. Awesome place to come hang out, eat some great tasting food and get a little buzzed.

Our Rating Scales…

• Scene- Hipster Southern Porch
• Food/Drinks- 4: Stellar… Wouldn’t change a thing!
• Tip Worthy- 3: Gratuity included
  
• Coordinates- 4: Neighborhood- Centrally located
• Restaurant Return Rate- Green light!